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Well rick if I'm completely honest I would drain system down. And I know people are thinking why, I just have never used bungs yet and prefer draining as I would have perfect control over the situation. I am fitting a new rad on a sealed combi system Wednesday and I'm gunner try just releasing the pressure and having one end open at a time.
 
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Well rick if I'm completely honest I would drain system down. And I know people are thinking why, I just have never used bungs yet and prefer draining as I would have perfect control over the situation. I am fitting a new rad on a sealed combi system Wednesday and I'm gunner try just releasing the pressure and having one end open at a time.

If the rad is the same width just isolate valves and crack a nut and drain the rad opening the bleed to let air in. Catch water in a tray fill a bucket and then remove rad and hang new one in same place:)
 
Too easy Kay jay the pipe work is under the floor with two stop ends on. I have some soldiering and bending to do :(. Buts thanks anyway! :) .
 
Well rick if I'm completely honest I would drain system down. And I know people are thinking why, I just have never used bungs yet and prefer draining as I would have perfect control over the situation. I am fitting a new rad on a sealed combi system Wednesday and I'm gunner try just releasing the pressure and having one end open at a time.

If there is no auto vents open, then you are not going to have any bother changing a rad valve on a sealed system. Fair enough, you will have to consider if the carpets & wallpaper are too delicate to risk any water near them.
I changed a Trv in a room with carpet & wallpaper, on an open duel oil/solid fuel system a couple of days ago. Was in the house by myself. Bunged the two 15mm vents at exp tank with Speedfit stopends & the feed pipe plugged. Took me seconds to swap the valve using a towel to keep the carpet dry.
 
Why don't you buy a set of bungs rick and practise using them at yours assuming you have an open vented system. Make sure you have faith in what you use round customers houses.
 
My first rule of plumbing:
Never leave an open end on anything.

I always put screw on caps on isolators and valves as well. Kids like to play with valves and anyway they could fail. Caps also prevent dirt getting into isos which is number one reason for them leaking at the screw slot when turned off.
 
Well rick if I'm completely honest I would drain system down. And I know people are thinking why, I just have never used bungs yet and prefer draining as I would have perfect control over the situation. I am fitting a new rad on a sealed combi system Wednesday and I'm gunner try just releasing the pressure and having one end open at a time.

I like this answer how ever im not sure what you mean by having one end open at a time?
 
If the rad is the same width just isolate valves and crack a nut and drain the rad opening the bleed to let air in. Catch water in a tray fill a bucket and then remove rad and hang new one in same place:)

Im liking this answer
 
If the rad is the same width just isolate valves and crack a nut and drain the rad opening the bleed to let air in. Catch water in a tray fill a bucket and then remove rad and hang new one in same place:)

College taught us to isolate the lsv and trv crack open the two nuts to the rad slightly! lift the rad of its brackets and lower the rad to the floor.Completley disconneted the two nuts from the rad and lift the rad up so the valves are pointing up then pour into a bucket.

Im thinking you mean isolate the valves disconect the nut on the trv valve to the rad let the water pour into the bucket using the rad key to open the air bleeding valve to control how quick it comes out then remove the rad completley?
 
Why don't you buy a set of bungs rick and practise using them at yours assuming you have an open vented system. Make sure you have faith in what you use round customers houses.

Ive got a sealed combi system lol and im not confident at bunging up an open vented system lol
 
If it is a small rad, isolate both valves, place a shallow tray and towels under the rad, crack both nuts, once the initial pressure has dropped, fully undo one nut and place your thumb over the rad tail, do the same with your other hand, lift the rad off the brackets and turn the rad upside down. Carry rad out (with your thumbs covering the tails still!) and empty it outside!

Practice makes perfect, just practice on laminate flooring first!!
 
You can't have two ends open rick because air will go in though one end and push all the water out the other if one end is open atmospheric pressure is stoping the water escaping the one open end because it has no where to go it just stays in the pipes.
 
College taught us to isolate the lsv and trv crack open the two nuts to the rad slightly! lift the rad of its brackets and lower the rad to the floor.Completley disconneted the two nuts from the rad and lift the rad up so the valves are pointing up then pour into a bucket.

Im thinking you mean isolate the valves disconect the nut on the trv valve to the rad let the water pour into the bucket using the rad key to open the air bleeding valve to control how quick it comes out then remove the rad completley?

Your college teachers must never have removed a rad in their life!
Lift it off the brackets & lower it to the floor.....? Firstly, you risk flooding the place & damaging the pipes & secondly, not all pipes will have movement to allow the rad to be raised while still attached to them!
 
You can't have two ends open rick because air will go in though one end and push all the water out the other if one end is open atmospheric pressure is stoping the water escaping the one open end because it has no where to go it just stays in the pipes.

So bunging both ends makes the trap in theory?
 
Your college teachers must never have removed a rad in their life!
Lift it off the brackets & lower it to the floor.....? Firstly, you risk flooding the place & damaging the pipes & secondly, not all pipes will have movement to allow the rad to be raised while still attached to them!

No isolate the valves both sides crack the nuts both sides a little lift the rad of the brackets and lower it to the floor remove the nuts fully lift the rad up so the tails are at the top and pour water into a bucket.Ive seen it done with lcs and i built it and my brackets was on lock down lol.The teacher removed it because there was some one else waiting to have ago
 
You bung the vent and the feed because feed will push water though the open end flooding the place and the vent will push air in the pipes also resulting in flooding the place. When you bung a system you stop any water or air getting in the system because that will push water out the open end.
 
You can't just lower it on the floor you will get black water everywhere you need to empty the remaining contents into a bucket.
 
It's all practise and experience. To start with do it how you're comfortable. Once you've had a couple of bad experiences with open vented drain downs chasing air locks about, that's when you realise that many a time a drain down is not the way to go. I remember going to a house on a Sunday morning, not long after I started on my own, trv leaking, had a quick look and it had split the olive, but it was a funny 1/2 olive and rubber o ring. So thought no problem I'll drain it and change the valve. Twenty minutes later I'm filling the system up thinking champion. Four hours later I'm still trying to fill the system up and get all the rads working.
 
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