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Cheap Inhibitor.

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Going back to the serious point of someone recommending adding fairy liquid to central heating systems, there is a large curved pipe at the top of my boiler which goes through the wall to the outside. I've just noticed that there is a removable bung in this pipe, so perhaps that is where I should pour in the fairy liquid??
 
stratobuddy said:
Going back to the serious point of someone recommending adding fairy liquid to central heating systems, there is a large curved pipe at the top of my boiler which goes through the wall to the outside. I've just noticed that there is a removable bung in this pipe, so perhaps that is where I should pour in the fairy liquid??
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Just to be clear, you are asking for advice on where to shove it?😱

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Seriously though it is a very bad idea to add fairy

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Joking aside, Stratobuddy, you do not have enough experience to fill a system with chemicals and should leave well alone. You will end up causing more damage than good and I recommend that you get a experienced engineer in to do this and follow his advice. That way you'll learn how to do it properly for the next time.

Please don't mess about with boilers either. Adding the wrong chemical treatments is potentially very dangerous. The same goes, for adding chemicals to a heating system. If you don't know where to apply these, you could end up adding these to the domestic hot water system in error, with potentially serious consequences for anyone who comes in contact with them. Remember, many of these chemicals are very corrosive and also very dangerous in the wrong hands.

Please heed this advice as a friendly but knowledgeable warning.
 
I'm pretty sure Stratobuddy has been joking - he mentioned on another thread that his system has recently been refilled and topped up with inhibitor.

I've heard it said by experienced engineers that a small squirt of fairy in the header tank helps to clear air from the system, but obviously not as an inhibitor.

Anyone used a Jif lemon to descale a boiler with?
 
petercj said:
I'm pretty sure Stratobuddy has been joking - he mentioned on another thread that his system has recently been refilled and topped up with inhibitor.
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I'm glad someone understands my sense of humour lol.

My plumber removed the smallest rad, put his thumbs over the opening and took it outside to empty.

Then he put the required bottles of inhibitor into it, and refitted it quickly before it ran out again.

I'm not sure if this is a conventional method, but there was no other way that I could see (eg there is no filter fitted to add inhibitor into).

I have just designed an invention, any comments? It is a pressurised gadget that you put the inhib into (when unpressurised), then you pump it up (with a built-in bicycle type pump) until it is greater than the system pressure. Once the gadget is pressurised, disconnect the mains water supply end of the fill loop and connect to the gadget. Open the boiler end filling tap, then open the tap of the gadget. The higher pressure in the gadget will force the inhib into the system. Then close the valves and reconnect the filling loop to the mains water.

Does this seem feasible?????
 
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It could look something like this. stock-photo-old-rusty-insecticide-spray-on-white-background-30213337.jpg
 
Oh, looks like I will not make my fortune then :-(

How are they used, where do you connect them?
 
bod said:
You mean the companies who make the chemicals already have something sorted, well dip me in marmite and cover me in hundreds and thousands
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Now THAT I'd like to see! 🙂🙂🙂
 
I always use cheap toolstation inhibitor pour it into a fernox container and charge full whack that way everybody's happy:wink5:
 
Don't use corrosive chemicals, use Avon Skin So Soft instead. That way if you make a pigs ear of it, your customers get moistured instead of pulverised.

A wee birdy told me that anti-ageing cream works a treat in your flexies......
 
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