Feed and Vent fun :DDDDD

[Best]

I converted mine about 20 years back. Old cast iron floorstanding boiler, gravity HW, pump next to boiler, pumping downwards. No controls. Cold feed to boiler return.
Scrapped the boiler and installed wall-mounted condensing. Moved the pump to the airing cupboard, added diverter valve (system W), open vent, cold feed and DV in the airing cupboard. Added cylinder and room stats. Re-used the gravity 28mm pipes as pump suction and cylinder return.
Still working OK.

That is exactly what system I have to work on!
Cast iron oil boiler with 28mm gravities to cylinder and 28mm pumped (pump is also on return pipe) to rads. No controls.
The feed pipe joins in at tee at return at cylinder.
Your new pipe up arrangement would be nearly what I would ideally do, but difficult on this house. I might risk trying to seal the system - but at a low charge.
As to Vee’s point about sealing the system using gravity feed from f&e tank and non return valve, - I have came across systems done that way, some of which are fed from the cwt cold supply.
Personally I don’t like it because risk of contaminating cwt, also disadvantage that the sealed system will keep being topped up in an event of a bad leak, like nail through a pipe. Although constant top up has also advantages.

 

[fixitflav]

That is exactly what system I have to work on!
Cast iron oil boiler with 28mm gravities to cylinder and 28mm pumped (pump is also on return pipe) to rads. No controls.
The feed pipe joins in at tee at return at cylinder.
Your new pipe up arrangement would be nearly what I would ideally do, but difficult on this house. I might risk trying to seal the system - but at a low charge.
As to Vee’s point about sealing the system using gravity feed from f&e tank and non return valve, - I have came across systems done that way, some of which are fed from the cwt cold supply.
Personally I don’t like it because risk of contaminating cwt, also disadvantage that the sealed system will keep being topped up in an event of a bad leak, like nail through a pipe. Although constant top up has also advantages.

In my case the F/E tank is almost directly above the airing cupboard, so open vent and cold fill no problem. I chased the wall in the hall for the roomstat, and it was fiddly getting the lead through to the airing cupboard. Eberle roomstat, because it was cheap, but no complaints, has anticipator heater and gives excellent control. I guess you'll use a radio-controlled roomstat so won't have the cabling problem.
There is a common heating flow pipe not far from the airing cupboard so I ran a pipe under the floorboards and tee'd into that with CH flow from the DV.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

My very scientific experiment

34" of head
1" single check valve
22mm feed
1 Williams f and e tank

Result

It works brilliant

 

[fixitflav]

My very scientific experiment

34" of head
1" single check valve
22mm feed
1 Williams f and e tank

Result

It works brilliant

Sorry Shaun, you've lost me. What works brilliant?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Sorry Shaun, you've lost me. What works brilliant?

Didn't think there was going to be enough head to open the check valve

 

[Ric2013]

That's looks like low-head check valve. Am I right?

 

[fixitflav]

Didn't think there was going to be enough head to open the check valve

With the suggested scheme the valve needs to close to prevent upward flow, if I understand correctly. Does it have a spring-loaded flap? Unlikely it will close otherwise. Or maybe use 2 90° bends so the valve is in a horizontal section, if it's the right type of valve. Or maybe 2 return bends so it's vertically down, but that gets a bit messy.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

That's looks like low-head check valve. Am I right?

dont have a clue, bought the check valve on the designed i liked the most

 

[ShaunCorbs]

With the suggested scheme the valve needs to close to prevent upward flow, if I understand correctly. Does it have a spring-loaded flap? Unlikely it will close otherwise. Or maybe use 2 90° bends so the valve is in a horizontal section, if it's the right type of valve. Or maybe 2 return bends so it's vertically down, but that gets a bit messy.

yes its spring loaded in the closed position

 

[fixitflav]

yes its spring loaded in the closed position

OK, looks like you have about 1.2m opening the valve on your rig. There should be more than that when installed.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

OK, looks like you have about 1.2m opening the valve on your rig. There should be more than that when installed.

86cm

 

[Vee]

It will work fine even with less.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Job done I think it looked ok

Took 5 hours to fill tho (due to no head f and e tank about 2" above the rads)

 

[Vee]

System Boiler?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

System Boiler?

heat only

 

[fixitflav]

Job done I think it looked ok

Took 5 hours to fill tho (due to no head f and e tank about 2" above the rads)

Looks nice! Does everything work OK?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Looks nice! Does everything work OK?

Yep

 

[chris watkins]

I'd like to think pushfit can with Stand 1bar!! Although I dispise the stuff.

3bar @ 82deg C otherwise it should not be used.
No one seems to pressure test anything anymore, testing systems using A or B testing method should identify any poorly made joints because the both involve reducing the pressure below working.

 

[Vee]

heat only

I’d recommend an expansion vessel & blow off as its a sealed system.

 

[sammathias]

I’d recommend an expansion vessel & blow off as its a sealed system.

Can you not see the massive expansion vessel in his picture then no?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

I’d recommend an expansion vessel & blow off as its a sealed system.

Blow off already on just out of shot/pic, expansion vessel right of pic

 

[Vee]

Can you not see the massive expansion vessel in his picture then no?

I can now. Nighttime blindness after a long day.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

I can now. Nighttime blindness after a long day.

You've had one of them also have you it's been one long arse week