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We have a leak in a central heating pipe under the tiled floor in our downstairs bathroom. The water was seeping up through the floor. I called a plumber and he lifted the tiles and dug to reveal the pipe and find the leak. He has repaired the leak using compression joints (also repaired larger 28mm pipe which he punctured when digging), which he says are more reliable than soldering, but we have had constant leaks from each pipe every time the water is turned back on. Water is now off and boiler not working, so he is due back today. I have researched and found that compression joints should not be used under concrete and joints should be soldered. I also read pipes should be protected with Denso tape, but he says they need no protection. He is also going to fill the hole with rapid set tiling adhesive before refitting the tiles. Am I right to be worried?
 

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Solution
Sorry, yes.

Those compression joints on the 28 look to be crooked (so will leak) and have been tightened with grips because he obviously lacked a big enough spanner for them (cosmetic issue, but doesn't bode well).

The work on the smaller-bore pipe looks tidy enough, but you should definitely avoid compression joints that are not accessible (technically the water regulations considers tiles to be an 'accessible' cover, but I think the idea is in a wall, not buried in a concrete floor!). Anyway, soldered joints are cheaper and more reliable. I can understand that compression may have been easier in this situation (only in some respects), but it just isn't a situation I'd have chosen to use compression in.

Denso tape is best for...
Sorry to hear that, can be hit or miss with these resins. Start over, do as you did with your prep making sure it's clean and dry. JB Weld will do it now you know where your leaks are. Make an impregnated wrap with the epoxy and wrap the fitting, stipple it with a brush or use gloves to apply. I 've used this a few times with no failures as long as it can dry cure.

Edit: fair enough but it still might be a while before you can get your system replaced but sound like you have other leaks too.
 
Sorry to hear that, can be hit or miss with these resins. Start over, do as you did with your prep making sure it's clean and dry. JB Weld will do it now you know where your leaks are. Make an impregnated wrap with the epoxy and wrap the fitting, stipple it with a brush or use gloves to apply. I 've used this a few times with no failures as long as it can dry cure.

Edit: fair enough but it still might be a while before you can get your system replaced but sound like you have other leaks too.
How do I get the jenolite off now though? It is set rock solid and wrapped around the pipe!
 
Do you have home insurance ? Leakage of pipework and damage to your property should be covered ?? I would go with your gut and get it replaced, when plumbing start to deteriorate and leaks occur you will find even if you solve one problem water will find the next weak point and your back to square one, patches and resins are only a temporary repair in my book. Kop
 
If it were me I'd probably go at it with a Dremel or pliers but if you can't get the resin off without further trashing the pipe then the only thing I can suggest is apply it over the top and hope. None of this is satisfactory of course, replacement of pipe or complete system renewel is best as you have concluded.
 
I think there is a bug in the latest version of the forum software. For the last few days it's not been possible to click-through to pictures/video from the thumbnails.

@Dan / @Lou – Are you aware of this issue?
Hi Chuck

Yes we are :) Lots of behind the scenes action on all forums so you may notice things like this until we get them sorted out.

Thanks Lou
 
What was the cause of the original leak? If pin-holed copper pipe, then likely to be much more widespread than just the point at which the leak occurred.
Yep. Pinhole leak on the inside bend of one of the connections. Plumber 3 cut a large length of new pipe and replaced it. No leaks now thankfully. We are getting the whole system replaced in the New Year as this is the second leak in pipes buried under the concrete floor, and I am not going through all this again lol
 
This old thread is very interesting....you all abused the original plumber for using compression fittings {which is fine if used correctly.The second best fitting to solder} Now you are all suggesting tape wire jb weld epoxy and every other bodge under the sun lol. You all judged too quickly. The job is a disaster and the correct remedy is replace the complete system.Rads are 40 plus years old ffs.
 
This old thread is very interesting....you all abused the original plumber for using compression fittings {which is fine if used correctly.The second best fitting to solder} Now you are all suggesting tape wire jb weld epoxy and every other bodge under the sun lol. You all judged too quickly. The job is a disaster and the correct remedy is replace the complete system.Rads are 40 plus years old ffs.

Everybody agreed the best remedy would be to replace the pipework but it was the first plumber that was paid and left the leaks/his fix unresolved. The bodge recommendations (mainly from me) were for a relatively unskilled but willing home owner to get out of a temporary bind when no plumbers seemed to be immediately available.
 
Never fails to amaze me how little water/steam is needed to take all the heat out of a propane torch flame! I have a roughly 1m long, 12mm dia. length of silicone tubing that I push up the pipework as far as it will go and blow down it to purge water but it doesn't always work. Would love to hear about any other tricks...
Press or wet vac
 

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