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Discuss Help with New Vaillant Boiler not staying on in the Boilers area at Plumbers Forums

My water tank is in the loft - is that what you mean by cold feed connections? (apologies im not very knowledgeable in this)
Vent is on the side of the house, sticking out from the wall.
No the heating system cold feed and vent connected into the system pipework?? As the picture below
 

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Can you post a photo of the very top of the boiler where the flow & return pipes are or/and ask you plumber to ensure that the flow pipe is connected to the pump inlet.


Edit: As per post#14.
Can you post a photo of the very top of the boiler where the flow & return pipes are or/and ask you plumber to ensure that the flow pipe is connected to the pump inlet.


Edit: As per post#14.
Will do, sorry I didn’t thought of it. He is coming today at 4 to start, I got all the previous messages ready. He installed it on 10th March so it’s been a while and I really hope with all this help here he will be able to fix it.
 
My water tank is in the loft - is that what you mean by cold feed connections? (apologies im not very knowledgeable in this)
Vent is on the side of the house, sticking out from the wall.
Is there only one tank in the loft?? or are there two, one much larger than the other??.
 
It looks like you may have a sealed system and a system boiler, not a heat only boiler, which I think refers to a vented system, you should see a red tank somewhere, probably near the boiler that may have a pressure gauge on it or the boiler may show a indication of pressure like 1bar to 1.5bar or similar?.
 
It looks like you may have a sealed system and a system boiler, not a heat only boiler, which I think refers to a vented system, you should see a red tank somewhere, probably near the boiler that may have a pressure gauge on it or the boiler may show a indication of pressure like 1bar to 1.5bar or similar?.
Should definitely be Heat only as I specifically wanted like for like change, please see a few pics with boiler details. Plumber would have noticed that’s it was s y stem one I hope, I’m doubting everything now :(
 

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The attic Tank may be your F&E tank for the boiler/system and you may have a unvented HW cylinder fed with mains cold water, if the hot water pressure/flow is the same as the cold water kitchen tap then probablay a unvented or look at the label on it, it should show the pressure.
 
The attic Tank may be your F&E tank for the boiler/system and you may have a unvented HW cylinder fed with mains cold water, if the hot water pressure/flow is the same as the cold water kitchen tap then probablay a unvented or look at the label on it, it should show the pressure.
Plumber did mentioned that he can install something for pressure but it can only be in the loft where water tank is so he said its not a good idea as i will have to go up there to change pressure. I'm sorry im so confused now with what i have and what it should be. All of you guys are amazing in writing all this details without even being there, it makes more worried that my guy been coming for 20 days now. He said today that he will maybe change the pump to UPS2 instead as its much more forgiving with old pipe system.
 
Plumber did mentioned that he can install something for pressure but it can only be in the loft where water tank is so he said its not a good idea as i will have to go up there to change pressure. I'm sorry im so confused now with what i have and what it should be. All of you guys are amazing in writing all this details without even being there, it makes more worried that my guy been coming for 20 days now. He said today that he will maybe change the pump to UPS2 instead as its much more forgiving with old pipe system.
He most certainly does not have to change the UPS3 because its too powerful, one can get any head required as shown above by changing its mode and setting. Its presently on speed 2 which is equivalent to a 5M pump, the head can be still further reduced in this mode to setting 1 which makes it a 4.2M pump, you can further reduce it to a 3M pump, CP1, or still further to PP1 which is only a 2M pump that isnt even powerful enough to circulate the water through your system. The UPS3 is only too powerful if the wrong modes and settings are selected.
1680260728418.png
 
Attaching pictures for under the boiler, water cylinder connection and top of the boiler.
 

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Has he not fixed it today then? There should be an arrow on the circulating pump, can you see it? There’s a 22mm pipe that comes across your boiler and runs on the left hand side, is that connected to the hot water?
 
Has he not fixed it today then? There should be an arrow on the circulating pump, can you see it? There’s a 22mm pipe that comes across your boiler and runs on the left hand side, is that connected to the hot water?
He canceled today, coming tomorrow at 9.
I found an arrow, it’s pointing downwards. The pipe, sorry, is it the one on the picture? It’s going down parallel water cylinder, but I can’t see where it’s connected.
 

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He canceled today, coming tomorrow at 9.
I found an arrow, it’s pointing downwards. The pipe, sorry, is it the one on the picture? It’s going down parallel water cylinder, but I can’t see where it’s connected.
Actually it’s the newer one to the left of where you’re pointing, but does look like it’s connected to the cylinder. Have you tried to range rate the heating or are you waiting for your plumber to do it?
 
Actually it’s the newer one to the left of where you’re pointing, but does look like it’s connected to the cylinder. Have you tried to range rate the heating or are you waiting for your plumber to do it?
Oh sorry, white one is a condensation pipe, he installed it going into the bathroom wall and under the bath, there’s a water connection there, he added this tube to that connection.
 
Oh sorry, white one is a condensation pipe, he installed it going into the bathroom wall and under the bath, there’s a water connection there, he added this tube to that connection.
Sorry,I didn’t mean the plastic one, I meant the copper one (as now shown in edited photo). As I said, I think it’s connected to the cylinder
 

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No, Im honestly straggling to understand any of this, I don’t want to press something and make it worse. If he can’t fix it tomorrow, I will look for someone else as I find it very strange now that he hasn’t checked on any of the issues you all mentioned and it’s been over 20days since installation.
It wouldn’t make it worse, it would either fault again or help with the issue, but might as well leave it to him tomorrow though if you’re not comfortable.

I’m not sure if I can help explain it any better, but the boiler flow and return temperature are too far apart, which suggests several issues which have been mentioned.
 
Any joy @IrinaPri or was it another no-show?
Thankfully he came, he started with cold system, changed boiler to 12kw, amended pump setting as per above, set over run on a pump to 5min. All radiators were open, the boiler did not go to high flame straight away and no fault 23 came on after turning on the boiler, after 45min all radiators were hot and only then boiler went to high flame and then stayed at around 71C. I’m keeping heating on for the weekend, but on Monday will see if everything works - I will set Hive to 20 (it’s 23 now) and hopefully boiler will fire up and stay on to circulate and maintain the target temperature. Thank you again for your advice, I will update on monday hopefully with good news! Have a good weekend l!
 
Update - You guys are most amazing professionals- the boiler stayed ON 🥹 Thank you all so very much, I’m so glad I decided to seek help here and it’s obvious now that my guy unfortunately does not have enough experience otherwise he would have try all this weeks ago.
At the moment temp on boiler 75C and holding, I set hive to 23C an hour before coming home and radiators all hot now and Hive temperature rising. The pump however still makes noise (video hopefully will upload below) not constant but often. I will keep an eye on it. A2615798-7961-4092-AB8C-3B18B12D06DD.jpeg
Again Thank you All for being so kind!!
 

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