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Discuss High efficiency gas fires in the Gas Engineers Forum area at Plumbers Forums

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D

dm65

Just a quickie - can the high efficiency type of gas fire be fitted in a standard, lined chimney or do they have to attach direct to a vent through the wall ?

I will NOT be doing this myself, but want to rip out existing infill in my chimney breast and prepare for a new fire

Regards

Denis
 
Can you specify exactly the make and model of the fire....

I suspect your referring to flueless ???
If thats the case...They are high efficiency on paper until you knock a gaping hole in your wall for neccasary ventilation purposes...
 
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High effciency and fire - two words that shouldn't be in the same sentence.

In all seriousness though, do you know the model of fire you'll be fitting?
 
Sorry, I don't know which fire yet but have recently exposed the brickwork on my chimney breast which has uncovered the original opening and lintel

Now (finally) decided to make it flat again instead of opening it up as originally intended and want to have one of those inset or 'hole in the wall' type of fires installed after I've rebuilt the face under the lintel

How many posts do you need before you can upload pictures ? It's always easier to understand and explain with a picture

Anyway, this then leads me to the million dollar question of what I can use with my existing flue which is a lined traditional chimney - I live in an old terraced house if that helps - so I can brick it up accordingly

And definitely not flueless, read some bad stuff about them last night

Regards

Denis
 
Id seeek advice from a gas safe registered fire installer before you go changing or modifying the opening size or internal faces as you may have to make further changes if it doesnt meet regs after your work is done.
 
Understood Phil and I have been recommended one but I just need to redo what is essentially stacked bricks around the existing opening but also cater for the intended fire and think that the cap (is that the right word for it ?) needs to be higher up than it is now

Pictures !!! :mad:
 
Problem I see online is most are only pushing out 4.1kw.
If you're open plan or large lounge wouldn't think it's enough...rads on too:-(
 
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Problem is see online is most are only pushing out 4.1kw.
If you're open plan or large lounge wouldn't think it's enough...rads on too:-(

Really, I assumed that was quite hot - I was contemplating electric at first !?!
 
Thanks for the link - need only 2kw (small rooms) according to that but want MORE !!

Sorry :thinking:

The good news is I've just installed a 2kw radiator so should be warm this winter (bloody cold when I moved in Feb) with any fire but I fancy one of those inset jobs just hanging in the wall and no fireplace
 
Thanks for the link - need only 2kw (small rooms) according to that but want MORE !!

Sorry :thinking:

The good news is I've just installed a 2kw radiator so should be warm this winter (bloody cold when I moved in Feb) with any fire but I fancy one of those inset jobs just hanging in the wall and no fireplace[/QUOTE

A few mates have wall hangers and they reckon you'd be as well to hang a picture of one than the real thing...poor heat output, so they say.

You could try a flueless version of this...perhaps

http://www.fires2u.com/product/912/flavel-windsor-contemporary-he-high-efficiency-gas-fire.html
 
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Thanks both

As aid, I am staying away from flueless - pointless anyway as I have a fully functional (hopefully) chimney

I have read that the glass fronted fires radiate better so perhaps that's the difference between experiences ?

Back in a bit, gonna install firefox as this site acts a bit weird in IE
 
Baxi Bahamas! You will probably need the chimney lining with kopex.
 
Installed firefox to see if I could upload some damn pictures but can't do it in that either

I've twertled around a bit on the pooter so we'll see ....

A Baxi Bahama seems to be a boiler :confused5: - I know we've strayed from the original post a bit but come on
 
Ok, here's a picture at last



What I want to do is take out the dodgy brick work below the lintel and build it back up again but leave a suitable opening for one of these hole in the wall fires - actual fire is proving difficult to find but they all need a hole right ?

You can hopefully see the existing liner which drops down to the existing opening behind the quality bit of regulation hardboard

Plumber dude coming to sort my tap is supposed to be gsr so I will be getting him to do something with the gas pipe (hopefully)

Hope that helps explain things
 
I'd be somewhat careful knocking all that out, b all holding up that lintel in the first place, which is then supporting several tons of chimney above, one of the reasons for using a decent builder to do this sort of work
 
I'd be somewhat careful knocking all that out, b all holding up that lintel in the first place, which is then supporting several tons of chimney above, one of the reasons for using a decent builder to do this sort of work
Agreed

Drill will be used on the plaster/cement sides only. Infill coming out slowly by hand afterwards

Rebuild will be lintel bottom, eng brick with another lintel above the opening for the new fire
 
If you go for the brushed steel finish: go over the brushed steel with baby oil and wipe.
You'll never have those horrible finger print marks on the steel thereater.
Kitchen fitter showed me this trick.
 
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If you go for the brushed steel finish: go over the brushed steel with baby oil and wipe.
You'll never have those horrible finger print marks on the steel thereater.
Kitchen fitter showed me this trick.
You can offer my plumber some baby oil if you want :)

Good tip though, thanks. I assume this is before first heat ?

I do know that gloves are supplied for handling the surround when fitting
 
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