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Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!

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If you don't know what your doing leave it alone, or if the urge is too strong, at least talk to somebody who does 1st.
 
With that much inhibitor, how did the rad corrode so bad in the 1st place. Ha ha.
 
Pair of Moles to help set up your soldering
(Please excuse the coupling, just got that length wrong and didn't have another length within reach 🙂 )
pe3eba5y.jpg
 
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if you have done a hole with a holesaw but its the size too small and want to make it larger, then obviously its not as simple as just drilling away because you have nowhere for the centre bit to go and holesaw will just sbin around everywhere. you can do a jig with some ply, drill thr requred size hole thru the ply then scew that ipece down to the floor or whatever over the hole you want to make larger, this will keep the holesaw in place to start drillig!
 
CXR100 said:
if you have done a hole with a holesaw but its the size too small and want to make it larger, then obviously its not as simple as just drilling away because you have nowhere for the centre bit to go and holesaw will just sbin around everywhere. you can do a jig with some ply, drill thr requred size hole thru the ply then scew that ipece down to the floor or whatever over the hole you want to make larger, this will keep the holesaw in place to start drillig!
Click to expand...

also a great way to start off tile drilling, tile coring or even core drilling in awkward locations.
 
Starret actually make holesaws you can fit inside each other to make that process easier
 
CXR100 said:
if you have done a hole with a holesaw but its the size too small and want to make it larger, then obviously its not as simple as just drilling away because you have nowhere for the centre bit to go and holesaw will just sbin around everywhere. you can do a jig with some ply, drill thr requred size hole thru the ply then scew that ipece down to the floor or whatever over the hole you want to make larger, this will keep the holesaw in place to start drillig!
Click to expand...

Good idea!
Another way to do it if the hole is too small is to have the larger hole cutter you need & screw a hole cutter (same size as tge smaller hole) inside it - which will stick out a little more & act to guide the outer cutter. Brilliant for when you need to drill larger holes in plasterboard ceilings for down lights.
 
the ones i have wont do this as i tried, also the thread is not the same size on all of the set!
 
Laminate floors are a pain but not the end of the world, after fault finding a dead and empty radiator I deduced the problem pipe work had to be under the laminate floor in the dining room. I told the customer it had to be partially removed and I would do my best to put it back properly. I found two valves under there both turned off but I'd removed more or less half the dining room floor.

I was quite suprised that I managed to get it all back in one piece and when the customer came back from work she even said " so you didn't need to take it up after all!"

As long as you put the cut pieces in a seperate pile you cant really go wrong, also you have to ideally work backwards from the way it was fitted so start with the full length cut side.

This is just normal 6mm laminate though, don't know how easy it would be with the 18mm solid/engineered wood.

But its worth knowing it can be done for those of you that didn't know!
 
Phil said:
Laminate floors are a pain but not the end of the world, after fault finding a dead and empty radiator I deduced the problem pipe work had to be under the laminate floor in the dining room. I told the customer it had to be partially removed and I would do my best to put it back properly. I found two valves under there both turned off but I'd removed more or less half the dining room floor.

I was quite suprised that I managed to get it all back in one piece and when the customer came back from work she even said " so you didn't need to take it up after all!"

As long as you put the cut pieces in a seperate pile you cant really go wrong, also you have to ideally work backwards from the way it was fitted so start with the full length cut side.

This is just normal 6mm laminate though, don't know how easy it would be with the 18mm solid/engineered wood.

But its worth knowing it can be done for those of you that didn't know!
Click to expand...

Grabbing a market pen and jotting on the backs to remind you which ones belong I. A row together might not be a bad idea either.

I've found the main thing is when you put two ends together its making sure they are PERFECT or the entire joint line will have a tiny gap and look bad
 
I keep a small piece of 9mm ply about 800mm x 400mm in the van.

I wrap it in a dust sheet and lay it across a bath when working on taps or showers. The same for a basin when changing taps and washers.


Stops you from dropping a spanner and damaging things and can slide under your toolboxes in van so doesn't take up any room.
 
Destroyer2813 said:
Same principal when tiling a bathroom Kyle , put your cutter on it saves you bending down all the time
Click to expand...

I always put my cutter on top of its case, on top of my hop up.

For tiling above a bath, get a bit of old worktop/ply with a bit of nice soft carpet stuck to it.
 
Killy Bing said:
get the snazzy bosch hole saw sets with the quick release arbor.

as they wear out you can take out the quick release section off the old holesaw and put on most other brands !!
the quick functionality of the quick release with any hole saw
Click to expand...

*looks online for new starret hole saws to fit his bosch arbor*
 
kyle87 said:
I keep a small piece of 9mm ply about 800mm x 400mm in the van.

I wrap it in a dust sheet and lay it across a bath when working on taps or showers. The same for a basin when changing taps and washers.


Stops you from dropping a spanner and damaging things and can slide under your toolboxes in van so doesn't take up any room.
Click to expand...
this reminded me always put the plug in or pop up down when working on tapssaves taking the trap of to find the screw or nut youve dropped in the basin
 
Haven't read all the thread so I might be repeating what someone has already posted but, I always keep a couple of spare test nipples, old rad air vents and the top off a thumb screw air vent
I once dropped a thumb screw air vent cap whilst filling (on my own) and couldn't find it anywhere, ended up tying my jumper around it while I ran back to the drain off........
Lesson learnt
 
When removing things like monobloc taps keep backing plate/washer and on CH pump keep bleed screw. You can guarantee they will find the only hole if dropped....never to be seen again !
 
Try to plan ahead and have a second way of getting the job finished before you even start if you get part way through the job and isn't going according to plan !
 
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