Honeywell 3-way diverter valve

[StuartDavis]

Hello everyone.
Hoping someone can help.
Brief summary of problem :
Baxi boiler OK, plumbing OK, pipes OK, but in my airing cupboard there is the CH/HW timer control connected to a normal plug socket. This is connected to the Honeywell 3-way diverter valve plumbed in to all the various 22mm pipes leading to the HW cylinder (I think ?) and elsewhere.

Sometime tonight after the CH & HW clicked on from the set timer, the Honeywell valve seemed to short out and went bang, causing the fuse in the plug socket to blow out aswell.

I have changed fuses (tried about 6 in all), and each time the plug socket is switched on, the Honeywell valve box seems to fuse and "pop" first rather than the plug fuse.
Question is : do you think I need a whole new Honeywell valve box ?
I note you can buy either a replacement powerhead, and also a replacement synchron motor.
I am reasonably competent at diy although not an expert.
Are they easy to replace, as I would rather not get involved with draining down the whole system, when replacing a component may be an option.

Can anyone help with any advice on this topic ?
Thanks in advance.

 

[Rox]

[FONT=&quot]Hi Stuart,
Honeywell has a technical helpline for installers during office hours: 08457 678999. They should be able to tell you if it just needs a new head.
While you’ve had problems with your valve, all those I've spoken to say Honeywell valves are the most reliable - reflected in them being market leader by far despite their higher price.
Good luck![/FONT]

 

[Puddle]

As said you can just replace head
The valves do not usually blow,in could be a wire that has become loose and hitting casing but usually it is caused by something leaking on or in it,if pump above valve check pump valves,check valve bodey as if leaking complete unit will require replacing

One other thing fuses are there to protect equiptment and do not blow because they are faulty,if a fuse blows,it is for a reason and a warning something is wrong,do not keep replacing them and blow one after another,you may end up damaging more parts on the system

 

[John Flower]

Depends on the age of the valve whether or not the head is of the removable type. Personally i would cange it to a mid position valve of Honeywell manufacture of course.As you will get better control over your heating system

 

[newbie1]

sorry but reasonably competent??
if the fuse blows it isnt going to not blow 6 times later if you dont change the offending part ie the valve is it
get someone to change the valve or change it yourself

 

[RoryD]

Hello everyone.
Hoping someone can help.
Brief summary of problem :
Baxi boiler OK, plumbing OK, pipes OK, but in my airing cupboard there is the CH/HW timer control connected to a normal plug socket. This is connected to the Honeywell 3-way diverter valve plumbed in to all the various 22mm pipes leading to the HW cylinder (I think ?) and elsewhere.

Sometime tonight after the CH & HW clicked on from the set timer, the Honeywell valve seemed to short out and went bang, causing the fuse in the plug socket to blow out aswell.

I have changed fuses (tried about 6 in all), and each time the plug socket is switched on, the Honeywell valve box seems to fuse and "pop" first rather than the plug fuse.
Question is : do you think I need a whole new Honeywell valve box ?
I note you can buy either a replacement powerhead, and also a replacement synchron motor.
I am reasonably competent at diy although not an expert.
Are they easy to replace, as I would rather not get involved with draining down the whole system, when replacing a component may be an option.

Can anyone help with any advice on this topic ?
Thanks in advance.

There are 2 types one has a red gasket between powerhead and body - thats a drain down or 'bung'. The other is simple powerhead change, cheaper still just a synchrom motor change, but more fiddly if you ain't done it b4. Please ensure to isolate electrics. if you have the head with red gasket, you'll need a new base plate for the body (upgrade). note the number on the powerhead and ensure you get the correct one. let me know & I'll check the part number on my laptop

 

[stevetheplumber]

definatly need a head or new valve as its switches that short and pop fuses, motors seem to just stop working