kinked, crimped and coiled 8mm pipework | Boilers | Page 3 | Plumbers Forums
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Discuss kinked, crimped and coiled 8mm pipework in the Boilers area at Plumbers Forums

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Yea there's a few out there just do more than one and compare results
 
Upon closer inspection of one of the manifold's, it appears that 2 of the 4 branches double back to the return manifold. Therefore the massive crimping session that's gone on is obviously to reduce flow, but leave enough for it to act as a relief valve.... I was under the impression that the way to add a relief valve was to fit at least one rad with no trv, only lockshields?
 
yes on full systems you have two choices either fit an auto bypass or fit one rad with lockshields ie normally a bathroom
 
So him crimping a bypass pipe constitutes an auto bypass or have I had bodge it n scarper fit this system?
 
So him crimping a bypass pipe constitutes an auto bypass or have I had bodge it n scarper fit this system?

if theres no valve on it they have bodged it
 
I haven't discovered one yet. Where's the most likely place for one?

should be on the 8mm if there is one

if not put a auto bypass on best place would be after the pump but before the motorized valve and in 22mm
 
Unless it's mid run on the 8mm then there isn't one, I'll just fit two lockshields on a rad . I'm sure the pre prepped unvented will have one, won't it?

One other question... Fitting a new 22mm pipe, hole in the beam or notches in the top? Which is most viable and professional?
 
Unless it's mid run on the 8mm then there isn't one, I'll just fit two lockshields on a rad . I'm sure the pre prepped unvented will have one, won't it?

One other question... Fitting a new 22mm pipe, hole in the beam or notches in the top? Which is most viable and professional?

if you hole will need to be drill from the center of the joist (unless your plastic or take a brick out you wont do it in copper)

and re the unvented you will need a g3 plumber to install that
 
No probs, I'm thinking for the hot water pipe that my plumber asked me to install from the new site to the airing cupboard. I'm going to run the 22mm a bit further than he suggested and route some to the bath too, that way less wasted hot water than going through the old pipes - I'll be using barrier so holes may be best.

He is accredited to fit the unvented :)
 
Is it worth running 22mm to the bath hot tap from an unvented? Or is this overkill?

will give you better flow and i would if you could
 
It's going to get a 22mm riser, then 6 -7 metres to the airing cupboard in 15mm. It passes the bathroom along the way so seemed a good idea. Just wasn't sure on flow rates.... Cheers Shaun
 
Aren`t bath taps 22mm rather than 15mm?

they are but half the time people just use a 15mm - 3/4 flex / tap connector
 
Talking pipe size not BSP tap size, but sure you knew that.

:D hoping you would spend a bit of time thinking wtf, cant pull the wool over your eyes ;)
 
:D hoping you would spend a bit of time thinking wtf, cant pull the wool over your eyes ;)

I`m sure you will one day Shaun, I don`t pretend to know it all even with +25yrs experience of water & pumps. lol
 
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Out of pure curiosity. What would it cost me in the region of for an upstairs repipe and the extra 7-8 metres of water section to be fitted in copper by a plumber. I know there must be many variables, just wondering for a medium sized 4 bed.
 
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