Moving Earthenware Waste in Concrete

[blawford]

So judging by the other thread I started I'm going to struggle to connect a new toilet with my waste pipe hole being so far from the wall (about 30-35cm to be precise). I am therefore thinking about the logistics of moving the opening.

As the title suggests, it is a ceramic/clay/earthenware (not sure what the right term is) in a concrete floor. The tools I have at my immediate disposal are a angle grinder with diamond blade, a few chisels and hammers, drills (non SDS) and masonry bits.

I assume the aim is to get access to the pipe, cut it off clean and then fit a 'Flexible Pipe Coupling' (can't post a URL) to attach a new PVC pipe to?

Few questions, how delicate is the pipe and how do I go about this job without breaking it? Can I do this job with the tools I currently have available or should I be buying/hiring something? How long is this job likely to take me roughly?

Thanks.

 

[Stigster]

You will have to work from a few inches either side of the waste pipe and carefully work your way in to the pipe's outer surface, like an archeaologist uncovering something delicate. I have used an SDS hammer drill with a chisel, a spike and a chasing bit as needed.

It's nerve wracking stuff but if you are careful it can be done. I have found that the concrete usually flakes off cleanly from the pipe's surface as you get near.


Then you are going to need the make enough room around the pipe so you can grind the pipe away bit by bit until you have a square face you can get a connector on to.

 

[blawford]

Thanks for the reply.

How long would you estimate it might take? What do you do afterwards, concrete it back in?

 

[oz-plumber]

Very difficult job to do for someone who hasn't done it before.

You may want to find out how thick the concrete is. Drill a hole until you break through.

Measure how far under the floor level to the bend, you may be able to determine which way the pipe runs from the bend.

I would start at the point where the waste for the ne pan has to be and work my way back to the existing pipe location.

It could be very tricky depending on the thickness of the concrete, depth of the horizontal drain and direction the drain is running.

How long will it take - you will know when you're finished, and yes, concrete it back in

 

[blawford]

Very difficult job to do for someone who hasn't done it before.

Such a spoil sport!

Did as you suggested, drilled a hole with my 18V drill driver, went though OK but the drill wasn't really powerful enough to go very deep so started chiseling. Concrete wasn't very thick but I did come across brick a bit further down. Managed to make a 7" hole in about 30 minutes or so.



I am assuming I can't do any structural damage doing what I am doing?

The soil pipe is currently a sweeping 90 degree bend away from the hole I have made, I am also assuming that I need to cut it off before the curve 'downstream'?

 

[joni os]

You've done the hard work, now find pipe outside and replace whole of internal pipework with new UPVC pipe, joining to existing with stepped flexible clay to PVC adapter. Fill void with weak mix 15:1 concrete.

 

[blawford]

Here is where I got to with another few hours work.




I assume I will have to go quite a bit further 'downstream' to get to a part of the pipe after the bend to attach to?

 

[Chalked]

You will need to dig back to the end of the bend. It will (hopefully) be running horizontally after that. Cut it there and adapt to plastic.
Glad your doing it properly, instead of boxing the wc off the wall. Will look much better when you have finished.:hurray:

 

[oz-plumber]

Keep digging Pal,

You have a long way to go before the difficult stuff begins.

I hope for you sake that bend doesn't connect directly to a junction.

 

[Old Account]

looks alright the job quite impressive for someone who is not so familiar with plumbing.

Hopefully he won't have those old long bends the are pretty long , if so he has to chisel quite a bit

 

[blawford]

I think the last two posts might have called it!

What do I do next?

 

[Chalked]

Cut it before the socket. Adapt it from there.

 

[blawford]

Cut it before the socket. Adapt it from there.

Seems like it might be possible, can't see the bottom of the pipe yet so I can't tell how much straight pipe I have to play with, doesn't seem like a lot but I guess it must be straight at the point it goes into the socket?

How much straight pipe do I need for the rubber joint to attach to?

 

[Radioman]

Keep going around the pipe, expose it so you can see all the pipe then post further picture. You are doing really well. If you are going to use a rubber sleeve coupling you need about 3 inches of straight pipe. If you use a clay to plastic socket about the same is safe

 

[blawford]

Thanks all, will hopefully have more by the end of the day.

 

[joni os]

The bend goes straight into socket with cement joint, will be necessary to cut off socket to give tolerance you need to reposition pipe close to wall. Would still be much easier, if possible, to locate pipe outside and make connection there. This would ensure all internal pipework properly jointed and reduce chance of leakage weakening foundations.

 

[blawford]

The bend goes straight into socket with cement joint, will be necessary to cut off socket to give tolerance you need to reposition pipe close to wall. Would still be much easier, if possible, to locate pipe outside and make connection there. This would ensure all internal pipework properly jointed and reduce chance of leakage weakening foundations.

Sorry, missed you suggesting this in your earlier post. Are you suggesting I remove the entirety of the pipework I already have (all the way to the outside drain) and replace it. Or add additional pipework from the outside drain to where the new toilet is going to go? Or neither of the above?

Wouldn't that mean that I need to dig up a lot more of the floor to take it the full distance to the outside?

Can you elaborate on what your plan would be?

 

[joni os]

Assumed pipe was against outside wall, if not have to be done internal. In every case, if you have to dig a hole, dig one big enough to work in.

 

[blawford]

Not much progress tonight, sorry about that, I know people look forward to my posts about my bathroom soil pipe! The under side of the pipe above the joint is cemented in and very hard to get through. I have attached pictures but I'm not sure they are very useful in terms of people giving me advice.

What I am mainly wondering at this point is whether I could cut it off below the joint as the only thing surrounding that part of the pipe is soil and very easily removed.

Also not really sure, even if I do clear the remainder of the upper part of the pipe without breaking anything, whether I will have enough straight pipe to attach to?

 

[blawford]

Anyone able to offer advice? Was hoping to geting this sorted tomorrow. Thanks.

 

[tamz]

Yer getting there. Get into it with the angle grinder or if you're brave enough you can just knock the collar off.

 

[blawford]

So above or below the collar? Or try and break the upper pipe out of the collar?

 

[oz-plumber]

Try and break the vertical pipe off so you can clear the concrete.
All the concrete under the pipe will have to come out.
If you break the collar - you break it - chances we take.

Once you have cleared a section of the horizontal pipe then you can attempt to cut it.

And watch out for sharp edges on the earthenware - sharp as a scalpel.

 

[blawford]

Try and break the vertical pipe off so you can clear the concrete.
All the concrete under the pipe will have to come out.
If you break the collar - you break it - chances we take.

Once you have cleared a section of the horizontal pipe then you can attempt to cut it.

And watch out for sharp edges on the earthenware - sharp as a scalpel.

Thanks, that was the plan I had just come up with also. Just dug around the pipe below the collar and that is all concreted too. Will cut the vertical section of the pipe off and see what it's like from there.

Have a feeling I might be buying a 240V SDS drill will chisel attachment before the end of the day!

 

[snoopy8888]

widen the hole first below the collar enough room to make the connection then cut off the collar.