Moving Earthenware Waste in Concrete

[blawford]

Good progress this morning. Decided to start cutting off the upper pipe above the collar a bit at a time and seeing what I was left with after each cut. The concrete on the underside of the pipe wasn't too hard to break down once I got access.

Here is where I am at. I was hoping I would get a clean disconnection from the collar but unfortunately a bit of the collar broke off. Probably not too big of a deal in terms of the end goal, but I am a perfectionist!

So, is the next step to cut off the pipe below the collar and attach the rubber pipe coupling or is there a different play here?

Edit: This forum seems to attach photos in a different manner each time, I don't seem to be able to view the attached picture in a larger size so here is a link to it:

https://goo.gl/photos/6byhFU2i19qk8ny26

 

[blawford]

With no replies I now just feel like I am 'live blogging' the removal of my bathroom soil pipe! Cut off below the joint and removed all the concrete underneath, which was a real pain. Need to square off the cut (couldn't cut completely through at one angle due to access at the time) and then I am ready to put on the rubber coupling I guess?

To square the end of the pipe I guess I just cut a small amount off, wouldn't be better off getting a grinding disc and 'sanding it' square? I'm guessing probably not, but just a thought I had...

 

[ShaunCorbs]

looking good so far and keep in mind most people will be still at work

and hope this helps

to help with cutting pipe bigger than your grinder can handle

cut the top section (blue line) upto red line and remove the piece

then you can get your grinder into the pipe so you can but the bottom from inside the pipe



hope this helps any questions just ask

 

[rpm]

I would say ...

A. You`ve done well.
B. The rubber collar will go over the pipe by around 3" so the end of the pipe is good enough.

But have a cup of tea and wait for replies from more experienced people than me.

 

[blawford]

I didn't mean to come across as if I was complaining about the lack of replies, just more amused that I was just posting a running commentary on the removal of a bathroom soil pipe. Hopefully someone will come across this in the future and the detail will help them.

The rubber collar will go over the pipe by around 3" so the end of the pipe is good enough.

Went and tidied up the end of the pipe a bit before I saw your post and thankfully I managed not to wreck anything, would have been massively annoyed if I had though considering it wasn't required.

Now I just need to figure out what I need to buy and go somewhere to buy it.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

I didn't mean to come across as if I was complaining about the lack of replies, just more amused that I was just posting a running commentary on the removal of a bathroom soil pipe. Hopefully someone will come across this in the future and the detail will help them.

Went and tidied up the end of the pipe a bit before I saw your post and thankfully I managed not to wreck anything, would have been massively annoyed if I had though considering it wasn't required.

Now I just need to figure out what I need to buy and go somewhere to buy it.

Measure the dia of the pipe and either go to a builder merchant or have a look on the Internet for a fernco coupling from dia of your pipe to 4"

 

[joni os]

Excellent job, coupling will seal as it is, but the square cut would be even better. Rub circumference of cut external and internal with piece of broken concrete to remove sharp edges. This will help coupling slide on pipe, external, and lessen chance of waste build up at joint, internal. Most important, old and new pipework adequately supported. I would use weak concrete mix. Some building inspectors might prefer pea shingle. Whatever you use pack it well round the pipe.

 

[blawford]

Bit of an hard question to answer I would imagine but what is the best way to work out what combination of bits I need in terms of angles and straight bits of UPVC pipework after the coupling?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Bit of an hard question to answer I would imagine but what is the best way to work out what combination of bits I need in terms of angles and straight bits of UPVC pipework after the coupling?

Yes one straight bit how ever far you want to push it back/ toilet (but they might only sell a length ) and a 4" elbow

And then for above ground you will require a 4" bent pan connector

 

[rpm]

Small point, is there a recommended torque for tightening the bands when fitting the Fernco coupling?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Small point, is there a recommended torque for the bands when fitting the Fernco coupling?

Yes normally stated on the coupling

 

[blawford]

Small point, is there a recommended torque for tightening the bands when fitting the Fernco coupling?

That was going to be one of my next questions. Not owning a torque wrench is there a way to do this without buying one? I love to buy a new tool but this seems a bit excessive for one use. Although I obviously don't want to crack the pipe at this point!

 

[ShaunCorbs]

That was going to be one of my next questions. Not owning a torque wrench is there a way to do this without buying one? I love to buy a new tool but this seems a bit excessive for one use. Although I obviously don't want to crack the pipe at this point!

Ft will do (tight tight)

 

[joni os]

If moving connection at rightangle to run of pipe you will need a medium radius 90 bend, which can be rotated towards wall and a 15 or 30 bend to bring pipe square with floor, depends on depth of existing and required distance off wall. Short length of 110 straight pipe, pan connector and your stepped clay to PVC coupling.

 

[rpm]

That was going to be one of my next questions. Not owning a torque wrench is there a way to do this without buying one? I love to buy a new tool but this seems a bit excessive for one use. Although I obviously don't want to crack the pipe at this point!

I`ve only ever used the small 40-50mm ones where the worm head can be tightned with a screwdriver or a socket, the socket and a ratchet will give a greater torque.

 

[joni os]

Tighten with !/4" drive socket set, you will know when it feels tight. Don't over tighten and strip worm thread. Arrange bands on coupling to aid access for tightening.

 

[blawford]

Just looking at pipe. Screwfix and Wickes are the closest places to me and Screwfix is a couple of quid per joint more expensive than Wickes, but Screwfix is FlowPlast branded stuff vs Wickes own brand. Should I spend the extra?

 

[joni os]

Just looking at pipe. Screwfix and Wickes are the closest places to me and Screwfix is a couple of quid per joint more expensive than Wickes, but Screwfix is FlowPlast branded stuff vs Wickes own brand. Should I spend the extra?

If near a Toolstation they will be even better and no problem returning unused fittings.

 

[blawford]

Had a look at Toolstation but they don't have the rubber coupling in stock and I don't really want to go to more than 1 place.

So a length of pipe connected to the rubber coupling then an elbow on the end to bring it out vertically at ground level. Would this be suitable as that elbow to sort out the angle I am left with (assuming it isn't something standard, which it almost certainly wont be).

Do I want the end up with the end joint almost flush with the floor?

 

[joni os]

The end joint is best flush with the floor and if it happens to be a collar insert 80mm of straight pipe, for pan connector to seal. Still unsure as to which wall you will be placing toilet against, assume it is one running parallel to pipe.

 

[blawford]

Just finalising what I am going to buy. Can I just check, the pipe that the toilet connects to should ideally be flush pipe (so a single socket rather than a double)?

 

[oz-plumber]

You probably don't want a socket at all.
The pan connector should fit inside the pipe.

What you need is an earthenware to PVC adaptor ( we call them Plumbquicks)
1 x 88 degree bend.
1.5 metres of pipe.
You may require a 15 degree bend if the horizontal drain does not line up with the location n of the new pan.

You will also require concrete to go under the bend where the pipe goes vertical.
You may also want some foam to wrap around the pipe where it goes through the existing slab - not sure if you guys do that?

You will also require some screenings to cover the pipe to the level of the concrete slab, you don't want to encase the whole pipe in concrete.

Hopefully you can decipher what I mean

 

[blawford]

Sacked it off early on Sunday to watch the football, shouldn't have bothered as it was a terrible game! 90% of the way there but it isn't quite coming out at the right angle.

In addition to the photo I have a 15 degree joint that I think might correct the angle, can I connect the 15 and 45 degree joints together?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Sacked it off early on Sunday to watch the football, shouldn't have bothered as it was a terrible game! 90% of the way there but it isn't quite coming out at the right angle.

In addition to the photo I have a 15 degree joint that I think might correct the angle, can I connect the 15 and 45 degree joints together?

yes you can or another 15 degree

 

[blawford]

Please tell me I am done!

Pipe position is where I want it, about an inch and a half from the wall. Angle is still slightly off but I figure I could probably get the cement floor in level and then cut it off flush? Either that or just use a flexible quick, cover it over with a decorative collar and live with it?

What do you lot think?