Moving Earthenware Waste in Concrete

[Chalked]

Please tell me I am done!

Pipe position is where I want it, about an inch and a half from the wall. Angle is still slightly off but I figure I could probably get the cement floor in level and then cut it off flush? Either that or just use a flexible quick, cover it over with a decorative collar and live with it?

What do you lot think?

Use a 45 degree bend and twist the two bends until it lines up flat.
Hard to explain, but it will work.

 

[blawford]

Use a 45 degree bend and twist the two bends until it lines up flat.
Hard to explain, but it will work.

Will give that a try tonight.

 

[Radioman]

Are you sure you are close enough to to the wall? I would put a couple of boards across the excavation and rough fit the wc and cistern in situ with a pan coupler just to check. Remember to allow for wall tile etc. Worth the effort. You've done really well up,to,now. It's a horrible job.

 

[blawford]

Are you sure you are close enough to to the wall? I would put a couple of boards across the excavation and rough fit the wc and cistern in situ with a pan coupler just to check. Remember to allow for wall tile etc. Worth the effort. You've done really well up,to,now. It's a horrible job.

Yeah I think I am close enough, as I said, it is about 1.5" away and that is without skirting board on, picture might be a bit deceptive due to angle. Having said that I will double check everything tonight and probably do as you say and rough fit it before I lock everything in place.

Toilet I have is a mid level cistern (not sure if that is the right term, basically a high level cistern but with a short flush pipe) so there will be a bit of variance in the fitting, but I do want it as close to the wall as it can be from a space perspective.

 

[Chalked]

MKe sure you fit the pan far enough away for the toilet seat to stand up.

 

[Radioman]

MKe sure you fit the pan far enough away for the toilet seat to stand up.

That's the ladies installation when the seat meats Velcro to stay up

 

[blawford]

That's the ladies installation when the seat meats Velcro to stay up

Good point on the distance needed for the toilet seat to stand up. Velcro bodge would drive me nuts!

 

[blawford]

Are you sure you are close enough to to the wall?

You got in my head and I decided to make it closer to the wall. Measured again when I got home and I was a little over 2" from the edge of the waste pipe to the wall, decided closer was better than further away and I cut the gap down to 1".

Trouble is now that the soil pipe is now even higher compared to the floor level. Tried the earlier suggestion of twisting the two joints on each other to sort out the angle of the final opening but couldn't get it to help. Here is where I am at currently and I could do with some suggestions on how to solve it, preferably quickly, as I really need to draw a line under this part of the project.


All good and level this way.


Not level this way.


Bottom of the spirit level is where the line of the floor is. So now quite far above it.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

maybe put a 15 degree one into the fernco coupling and put a 90 bend where the two 15 degrees are now, you might need to dig down a bit more from the fernco to the elbow

but without being there its hard to say

 

[blawford]

maybe put a 15 degree one into the fernco coupling and put a 90 bend where the two 15 degrees are now, you might need to dig down a bit more from the fernco to the elbow

but without being there its hard to say

It isn't two 15 degrees currently, it is a 45 and and 15. But yeah, I see what you are thinking and it is something that I have tried before, I then came up with the idea I have now and it seemed to be better for a while.

The other thought I had was to dig a bit more out below the pipe so that it reduces the angle of the pipe, takes a bit of height out and swap the 15 for a 30?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

It isn't two 15 degrees currently, it is a 45 and and 15. But yeah, I see what you are thinking and it is something that I have tried before, I then came up with the idea I have now and it seemed to be better for a while.

The other thought I had was to dig a bit more out below the pipe so that it reduces the angle of the pipe, takes a bit of height out and swap the 15 for a 30?

you could try, like i have said before its hard to picture from a picture

 

[blawford]

you could try, like i have said before its hard to picture from a picture

For future reference, how close do I need to get it before I can call it a day? Part of what will slow me down is having to come here and verify what I have done is good before I continue. So I wouldn't mind knowing what is the maximum I can get away with in terms of height above floor level and angle!

If I can get the pipe to where I want it in relation to the wall and I am as close as I was here in terms of height above floor level and angle, could I cement it in place and deal with it later by either cutting it off flush or covering it with a decorative whatever.

Also, how do I go about testing it once I have everything in place, just run a load of water down it and see if anything leaks?

Would appreciate answers to the above and then I will get it finished off tomorrow in order to cement it on Friday, I really need to be done with this!

 

[rpm]

The other thought I had was to dig a bit more out below the pipe so that it reduces the angle of the pipe, takes a bit of height out and swap the 15 for a 30?

Have you already lowered the pipe? Don`t wanna suffer blockages because the pipe doesn`t slope away like it should.

 

[blawford]

Have you already lowered the pipe? Don`t wanna suffer blockages because the pipe doesn`t slope away like it should.

Yes, I have altered the angle of the pipe slightly already but there is still a bit more I can take out I would imagine?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

you could take a tiny bit out of that and still be ok (fall wise)

 

[blawford]

you could take a tiny bit out of that and still be ok (fall wise)

Only a tiny bit? How much is that?

If you have a sec can you answer my other questions? Cheers.

 

[Radioman]

I would go with what you've got, cut the pipe off square when it's all screeded in. To test it you could rough in the loo with it standing on a couple of boards and connected up then just poor a couple of buckets of water down to check for leaks. If you want to check it clears waste ok use a soft banana and 4 sheets of loo paper and 6 litres of water. You could use one of these http://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/adjustable-bend-grey-sp560/50087

 

[oz-plumber]

Before you concrete the pipe in, you will have to make sure you have enough straight pipe - on the vertical - for the pan connector to fit.

You would probably want 100 mm of pipe from the floor level to the first bend, so that whatever pan connector you use will seal properly.

You have heaps of fall to play with, so it may require re-doing.
You don't want to concrete it all in, finish the bathroom and then find you have problems - because that will mean ripping it all out and starting again.

Put he 15 degree bend in the rubber coupling and a 88 degree bend at the end.
Make sure the vertical riser is vertical.

 

[blawford]

Before you concrete the pipe in, you will have to make sure you have enough straight pipe - on the vertical - for the pan connector to fit.

You would probably want 100 mm of pipe from the floor level to the first bend, so that whatever pan connector you use will seal properly.

You have heaps of fall to play with, so it may require re-doing.
You don't want to concrete it all in, finish the bathroom and then find you have problems - because that will mean ripping it all out and starting again.

Put he 15 degree bend in the rubber coupling and a 88 degree bend at the end.
Make sure the vertical riser is vertical.

Thanks for the reply. I will probably go to Screwfix tonight and buy both a 30 and 88 degree bend and keep playing with it until it fits, the return whatever I don't end up using.

Good points about needing enough space before the first bend for the pan connector to seal, I hadn't thought of that and I'm pretty sure I wouldn't have that much if I cut it off now.

When you say put the 15 degree bend in the rubber coupling, I have tried that but it brings the pipe out too far away from the wall, or do you mean the other way up?

 

[oz-plumber]

Use the 15 degree bend to get the horizontal pipe more horizontal.

For fall, using your level, you only need a quarter of the bubble over the line - not very much. - I'm sure that will be adequate for your situation.
( Make sure you know which line )

When using the 88 degree bend, if the fall is right, the vertical pipe should be plumb.
That's why they make 88 degree bends, so when vertical the horizontal pipe has fall.

 

[blawford]

All makes sense. Thanks.

 

[oz-plumber]

By looking at you latest pic, you may want a 30 degree bend to flatten out the drain.

 

[blawford]

You mean connected to the rubber coupling, where you originally said a 15?

 

[oz-plumber]

Yes - whatever flattens the drain out enough to have a vertical rise for the pan connector.

You may be able to tweak the rubber connector a few degrees to get the correct fall, you may need 1 or 2 5 degree bend.

All I know is that if the pan connector doesn't seal because of misaligned pipe work, you will be in more trouble than you could care, because ripping it all out will mean re-doing everything from the beginning.

 

[blawford]

I'm done!

Sorry, it isn't a debate, its set in drying concrete as we speak so if I did anything wrong let me live in blissful ignorance! Only kidding, sort of.

Finally got it level on all 3 axis, ended up using a 30 and 45 degree elbows connected together and taking out more concrete below the run of the pipe to bring the whole thing down. Actually went in quite easily once I bought the 30 degree socket, shame I didn't do that earlier but that's just down to lack of experience.