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Not all Rads getting hot

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Is the 2 zone valves the best option with the cyilnder stat and room stat.
 
deden56, a diverter valve and properly balanced system can work just as well as 2 zone valves, properly balanced. 2 or more valves becomes more of a benefit as the system size grows.. In my opinion!
 
I have had another plumber in he says the original system was a one pipe system before I had work done.New boiler,Hot water cistern moved upstairs from kitchen to bathroom and new rads added to the system in the kitchen.Some 2 pipe system has been added this is why the rads are not heating fully and It needs to be changed to a 2 pipe system.I dont know if this is correct.I have also been told by another plumber that because the cistern did not have a stat it was drawing alo of the heat away from the rads.I am getting more confused and dont know what option to go for.
 
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It sounds like you have a right mess of a heatin system if what they are saying is correct. It depends on how urgent this is for you to be honest deden56. you could get yourself a couple more quotes to cement your understanding and go with the one you trust or stick with one of the plumbers you've had out so far.

It certainly isn't good to have a mixture of heating designs and one pipe systems have their problems.

If the system was poor before the new boiler was fitted then replacing the system will ultimately be the best option. It depends on how far the funds will stretch as to what you have done! Ultimately this is going to be your call.
 
I agree with diamondgas,your option is to re pipe the system to two pipe system and make it sealed system ! better sort it out once and forget about it ,will cost but is adding value to your home if thinking to sell one day IMHO
 
More than big enough unless your house has no loft insulation and 20ft ceilings 🙂
 
It is an end of terrace with high cielings.It has a cellar which I have put rock wool between joists and boarded so the lounge does not get the cold from below.
 
deden56 said:
It is an end of terrace with high cielings.It has a cellar which I have put rock wool between joists and boarded so the lounge does not get the cold from below.
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It should be more than big enough! Your installer is the best to ask though as he's the one seeing the job yeh?
 
Here's an update on where I'm up to.

A plumber found system piped up wrong & changed to Y plan with 3 port valve.He isolated the C/H circuit & found restriction in boiler or coil.Temp rises fast on boiler 49 degrees cent to 74 degrees in 40 seconds 9Been told this could be blockage in the heat exchanger )then boiler stops F7 error (Glow worm flexicom 24 kw hx) comes up a lot of clicking while boiler is heating up and cooling down (Not heard this before).The casing on the C/H circ pump gets that hot I cant hold my fingers on it.2 rads have TRV's at wrong end.I have been advised to get a power flush.This boiler has an aluminium heat exchanger I read somewhere that it makes a difference to what you can flush with?
 
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deden56 said:
He isolated the C/H circuit & found restriction in boiler or coil.Temp rises fast on boiler 49 degrees cent to 74 degrees in 40 seconds 9Been told this could be blockage in the heat exchanger )

The casing on the C/H circ pump gets that hot I cant hold my fingers on it.
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Has the pump been checked? The fast temperature rise could be due to a faulty pump, which could be the reason for the very hot pump. In any case the pump is installed incorrectly as the shaft should always be horizontal, not vertical as in your pics. The installer should have drawn this to your attention.

Grundfos say: Pumps should not be installed with the shaft in a vertical plane, as this may lead to dry running of the top bearing, noise and possible pump failure.

2 rads have TRV's at wrong end.
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This is only true if they are one-direction TRVs. If they are modern bi-directional TRVs it doesn't matter which end they go. Look on the metal body of the TRV for one or two arrows. If there is only one arrow the TRV must be installed so the arrow shows direction of flow (towards rad on the flow - hotter pipe, away from rad on return - cooler pipe). It there are two arrows at 90 degrees, it's a bidirectional TRV and can go on either end.

It doesn't matter if a TRV is on the flow or return; all it is doing is controlling the rate of flow through the rad.
 
Hi deden56 ... Sound like your heating system is really struggling to circulate water around it. As said before, without seeing how things are configured its a difficult call regards flushing or re-piping! Really depends on how bad it is. If the concern is with the boiler heatex though they could easily bi-pass flushing the boiler by piping it out. May be an option considering the different ages between boiler and system!
 
The TRV's only have one arrow and the 2 that are wronrg point into the rad but they are on the return side.
 
TRV single arrow.jpgY plan # 1.jpgY plan # 2.jpgY plan # 3.jpgNew Y plan in airing cupboard with 3 way port.TRV with arrow pointing in which is at return end.If you look back you will see old layout under bath.
 
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deden56 said:
The TRV's only have one arrow and the 2 that are wrong point into the rad but they are on the return side.
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Instead of moving it to the other end, the TRV just needs to be turned on its side, swapping over the inlet and outlet. Having the control horizontal is theoretically better as it does not get influenced by the heat rising from the pipe.

Alternatively replace them with modern bi-directional TRVs and keep them on the same end with the head vertical.
 
as a long shot I checked the direction arrow for flow on the C/H pump it was ok
 
I have had a power flush on the advise of a plumber who did the Y plan with no change still have poor circulation.I have a plan of how it is piped and what the plumber who flushed it said.It's an excel file is it possible to upload it to here?
 
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