OK for waste to run uphill a short distance?

[trf0412]

So, new plumbing firm is coming tomorrow to re-do all the waste pipes and fix other issues. They will leave me to fit the new flooring over the weekend (not quite sure why, but I'm more than happy to do it and can at least be sure of what's happening if I do it, esp. now I've discovered the muppet that was our previous "plumber" screwed down the 18mm OSB with about 25mm screws!!).

As a result of all this, I now get to choose what flooring to put down. I was thinking I would obviously get marine ply, but I've now seen the huge cost difference and I'm wondering if standard ply is almost as good? And where would OSB3 sit in the rankings between chipboard / marine ply / non-marine ply / OSB 3?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

What's going on top of it ?

 

[trf0412]

What's going on top of it ?

Porcelain tiles (if you are asking about the floor covering, rather than bathroom furniture/sanitary wear). I think these will be on top of a Ditra mat.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Porcelain tiles (if you are asking about the floor covering, rather than bathroom furniture/sanitary wear). I think these will be on top of a Ditra mat.

I would use 18mm marine ply glued and screwed down (don't hit any pipes wires or wastes) as you don't want problems later on

You can go belts and braces by using some 6mm ply to stager perpendicular to the 18mm m ply joins/ joints

 

[trf0412]

Ok... seems to be about £100 a sheet, as opposed to £20 a sheet for OSB or around £35 for non-marine ply, though! Anywhere I can get it cheaper?

Apart from ability to maintain its strength if it gets wet, are there any other advantages to marine ply over same thickness standard ply?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

You can get it cheaper try a builders merchant/ dewson or travis etc around 45 a sheet 8x4

And no just water resistant

 

[trf0412]

If I can get it at £45 a sheet, I'll happily go with marine ply. But at £100 I may be tempted to go with standard ply if it's equivalent in strength.

Even standard ply would be a better choice than OSB though, right? Or are they much of a muchness?

 

[trf0412]

New plumbers are also going to cut out a small section of the hot & cold shower feeds to allow them to put in copper elbows and to straighten the pipes. Currently they aren't even level, and the copper currently comes straight out of a connector which goes directly onto a plastic pipe. The guy who came to look at the job said the copper pipes would be clipped in the wall to make sure they don't move.

But, my question is, what can the pipes be clipped to, given that they are in one of those awful 1960s corrugated cardboard style partition walls?

 

[Best]

Good quality plywood would highly likely be good enough if everything else done correctly, if you want to do a decent job at not the highest cost. Just make sure the plywood is not softwood centred. You need good quality top grade all hardwood plywood.
I think the main difference with marine plywood is it uses waterproof glue.

 

[huddster]

Is this 'new plumber' just you but with a bit more knowledge gained from the forum to correct the work you messed up first time around, if so bravo, a wonderfully told story.

No no I'm just being cynical, good luck with your 'new plumber' I'm sure he will find a way to secure the pipe work and if he does bodge it ill expect he will take a picture for you to upload on here and then someone can tell you, I'm mean the plumber how to do it properly.

 

[Ric2013]

Is this 'new plumber' just you but with a bit more knowledge gained from the forum to correct the work you messed up first time around, if so bravo, a wonderfully told story.

Or the OP simply has become paranoid, having had a bad experience the first time around, hence questions like 'what should the pipes be clipped to'? We'll never know.

 

[trf0412]

Is this 'new plumber' just you but with a bit more knowledge gained from the forum to correct the work you messed up first time around, if so bravo, a wonderfully told story.

No no I'm just being cynical, good luck with your 'new plumber' I'm sure he will find a way to secure the pipe work and if he does bodge it ill expect he will take a picture for you to upload on here and then someone can tell you, I'm mean the plumber how to do it properly.

Yeah, since coming on here a few days ago my plumbing skills have come on in leaps and bounds. Think I'm just about qualified now. Check out what I achieved today!

So, the top half of the cast iron soil pipe has been cut out and replaced with plastic. All the waste pipes have been re-run so that each appliance has its own waste direct to the soil pipe, and amazingly this time around with a fall (3rd time lucky!). The shower pipes now come out of the wall on copper elbows. They have also been set at a lower height which will allow the riser and shower head to not disappear into the loft!! I have absolutely no idea what I (sorry, Plumber No. 1) was thinking there! The hot and cold feeds for the towel radiator, bath, sink and toilet (i.e. everything else!) also had to be tweaked. The pipework going to the shower has also be rerun so that the shower waste doesn't push down on it. All pipes have also been clipped to the joists.

All in all, I think this is a much, much better job and it's now very clear just how terrible the 1st "plumber's" work was.

[For the avoidance of doubt, I'm just playing along with the cynicism (if you can't beat 'em, join 'em), but neither the previous work nor the remedial work were carried out by me.]

 

[trf0412]

I should have mentioned that the shower waste isn't complete yet, hence the waste pipe that suddenly stops. It will be finished after the shower tray has been correctly re-laid on sand & cement.

Or the OP simply has become paranoid, having had a bad experience the first time around, hence questions like 'what should the pipes be clipped to'? We'll never know.

Did I really ask that?! Maybe I did... been a stressful few days.

 

[trf0412]

New plumbers used Hep2O, hence the sudden change in fittings. There are a handful of the original plumber's Speedfit fittings still in place, but I'd say 80% of what he'd done was ripped out and redone.

Also, I got new plumbers to check previous guy had used the inserts that someone on here mentioned and he had at least got that bit right.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

spot on looks lovely

2 points

1: copper shower pipes need gaffa taping so the plaster doesnt touch the bare copper also tape the ends so no rubbish goes in them

2: shower pipes need clipping or foaming in to stop movement when plaster comes etc

 

[trf0412]

spot on looks lovely

2 points

1: copper shower pipes need gaffa taping so the plaster doesnt touch the bare copper also tape the ends so no rubbish goes in them

2: shower pipes need clipping or foaming in to stop movement when plaster comes etc

The previous photo was taken earlier in the day. I've just gone upstairs to take an updated photo. Re. your 2nd point – I believe they put that batten there to temporarily hold the pipes in place as the plaster sets. Re. your 1st point – pipes have been capped off, as mains water is back on, BUT, I don't see any evidence of anything protecting the bare copper from the plaster. And this issue would also apply to the radiator, bath & toilet pipes. How important is this? Is it similar to the issue of having cement corroding copper pipes? I don't think I can face any more alterations – I'm going to need a shower sooner or later

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Don't see the pic yet ?

Fair enough that's great

And for me I would always either tape them if I didn't have much thickness or insulate them

It's unlikely to cause much damage to the copper but there is a chance

And it's been raining cats and dogs round my area so go old school either wait till it rains or find a lake

 

[trf0412]

Don't see the pic yet ?

Forgot to upload it initially, but it's there now.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Yes it's there to keep the centres at 150mm

 

[Ric2013]

Yes, cement on copper can cause trouble. That said, my gas pipe at home, installed in 1987, runs straight through the mortar on a supprting pillar. And it's gone horrible and green BUT not leaking yet. Hope this reassures you.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Yes, cement on copper can cause trouble. That said, my gas pipe at home, installed in 1987, runs straight through the mortar on a supprting pillar. And it's gone horrible and green BUT not leaking yet. Hope this reassures you.

Now you've said that I think I smell gas ;D

 

[trf0412]

See the chases that have been filled above the batten? That's how high up the other guy had set the pipes! Still scratching my head in utter bewilderment!

On the advice of a building surveyor, I'm going to remove the short bits of softwood currently reinforcing the joists (where the 1st plumber went crazy drilling holes) and bolt on some longer pieces of 18mm ply on both sides.

Then I'm going to put down new ply wood with screws that are about twice as long as the 1st plummer/muppet used, as well as using glue. (Based on what's been said here I think I'm happy to go with standard ply as opposed to marine ply.) Then the plumbers will be back on Mon to cut holes for the wastes and fit bath and shower tray.

In preparation for Mon, I'm also going to try and get all the silicone off the bath and shower tray. One of the plumbers today told me about silicone remover. Anyone used this? Is it any good and is it safe to use on shower tray and bath?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

See the chases that have been filled above the batten? That's how high up the other guy had set the pipes! Still scratching my head in utter bewilderment!

On the advice of a building surveyor, I'm going to remove the short bits of softwood currently reinforcing the joists (where the 1st plumber went crazy drilling holes) and bolt on some longer pieces of 18mm ply on both sides.

Then I'm going to put down new ply wood with screws that are about twice as long as the 1st plummer/muppet used, as well as using glue. (Based on what's been said here I think I'm happy to go with standard ply as opposed to marine ply.) Then the plumbers will be back on Mon to cut holes for the wastes and fit bath and shower tray.

In preparation for Mon, I'm also going to try and get all the silicone off the bath and shower tray. One of the plumbers today told me about silicone remover. Anyone used this? Is it any good and is it safe to use on shower tray and bath?

Rubbish better off with a Stanley blade and a set of gloves

Also glue and screw the patches in

 

[trf0412]

Yes, cement on copper can cause trouble. That said, my gas pipe at home, installed in 1987, runs straight through the mortar on a supprting pillar. And it's gone horrible and green BUT not leaking yet. Hope this reassures you.

But not all plaster contains cement, right? I think I spotted a purple bag on our front lawn this afternoon, so it was probably Thistle Bonding Coat and as far as I can see cement isn't mentioned on the fact sheet about this product.

 

[Ric2013]

One of the plumbers today told me about silicone remover. Anyone used this?

I use the Screwfix No Nonsense silicone eater. It helps for getting the dregs off after you've taken the bulk of the old sealant out with a knife. I wouldn't bother for what you're using it for.

See the chases that have been filled above the batten? That's how high up the other guy had set the pipes! Still scratching my head in utter bewilderment!

I like showers to be high up, personally, perhaps you changed your mind, I mean your plumber did . Still, easier to not use the entire chase than chase a bit more if the customer decides it needs to be higher, credit where credit is due.