Wait a minute they have combined ch, tprv and prv together???
where do they all run too ash????
where do they all run too ash????
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Price to change a pressure valve on a boiler?
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The pic that shows the valve has the 22mm running to it and out the other side to the inlet on the cylinder. The 15mm that comes out the top of the valve runs to the pressure gauge you can see on the EV.
Am I likely to have a nightmare changing this??
Any advice/info appreciated.
Am I likely to have a nightmare changing this??
Any advice/info appreciated.
islolate mains, whip it out, new one in. Turn on and test.
Why you changing it?
The pic that shows the valve has the 22mm running to it and out the other side to the inlet on the cylinder. The 15mm that comes out the top of the valve runs to the pressure gauge you can see on the EV.
Am I likely to have a nightmare changing this??
Any advice/info appreciated.
Replacing the entire combination valves means draining the cylinder in that set up.
no drain off between the cylinder and combi valve?
the valve will have a non return (should do) so no back draining via a mains tap sadly
looking again, is that a valve on the cold inlet?
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Replacing the entire combination valves means draining the cylinder in that set up.
no drain off between the cylinder and combi valve?
the valve will have a non return (should do) so no back draining via a mains tap sadly
Why that's mate? Is it because its below the cylinder outlet? As anyone I've done has been mains off and bone dry?
Why you changing it?
That's what customer wants, she has already had a plumber out who was supposed to do it but hasn't got back to her for a few weeks. Took the part number but hasn't got back it touch. - making me wonder if it's a nightmare job.
Replacing the entire combination valves means draining the cylinder in that set up.
no drain off between the cylinder and combi valve?
the valve will have a non return (should do) so no back draining via a mains tap sadly
looking again, is that a valve on the cold inlet?
There's a isolation valve at the component itself.
No drain off between the component and cylinder.
Forgot to take a pic of the 15mm to the top of the cylinder. where would that be going any ideas?
Why that's mate? Is it because its below the cylinder outlet? As anyone I've done has been mains off and bone dry?
Thanks for your replies so far. Have you changed a valve exactly the same as that before?
I'm hoping it is a matter of mains off and whip it out but reckon i'm looking at a drain down??
I've changed about 15 working for the firm I'm with ATM, and genuinely one of the easiest jobs I've ever done long as you can get your spanner n grips in, but I've never had to drain downThanks for your replies so far. Have you changed a valve exactly the same as that before?
I'm hoping it is a matter of mains off and whip it out but reckon i'm looking at a drain down??
I've changed about 15 working for the firm I'm with ATM, and genuinely one of the easiest jobs I've ever done long as you can get your spanner n grips in, but I've never had to drain down
Getting spanner and grips in will be no problem. What about the 22mm that goes in to the inlet on the cylinder? Does that have a non return valve built in?? That's what I wasn't sure about
Don't think so tbh. That's why I said to billy about drain down as mine I've never had to drain but iirc all my ones I changed were above inlet so perhaps that's whyGetting spanner and grips in will be no problem. What about the 22mm that goes in to the inlet on the cylinder? Does that have a non return valve built in?? That's what I wasn't sure about
E
Ermintrude
The multi valve should have a nrv. Also the lever on top is an ISo . I would clean inlet gauze too. Are you g3 qualified? If you turn off ISo and crack prv on head of multi valve it should prove nrv working . Where is expansion for cylinder? Is it a bubble top as if bubble gone you may not even need to change valve. But if your not qualified you should leave it to someone who is as you don't appear competent. Don't mean to. Be rude but if your unsure leave it alone!
G
Gray0689
Drain down 30 mins
Change valve if like for like 30mins tops
Refill 30mins
For you ask a homer I'd be saying £50 to £60 plus parts
Change valve if like for like 30mins tops
Refill 30mins
For you ask a homer I'd be saying £50 to £60 plus parts
The multi valve should have a nrv. Also the lever on top is an ISo . I would clean inlet gauze too. Are you g3 qualified? If you turn off ISo and crack prv on head of multi valve it should prove nrv working . Where is expansion for cylinder? Is it a bubble top as if bubble gone you may not even need to change valve. But if your not qualified you should leave it to someone who is as you don't appear competent. Don't mean to. Be rude but if your unsure leave it alone!
I do have g3 but haven't really used it. I'm not in a position to turn work down, If I take my time and double check everything I do then I will be capable of changing this. What I am more concerned about is isolating correctly so I don't flood the place. (Obviously it's a confidence issue but whenever I am working the thing that scares me is worrying if I have isolated and drained sufficiently) Once I know I have isolated I'm fine.
I might not be competent as such but if I pass this job on then I won't be confident to do it next time I get the chance. Have to learn some how.
I'd rather appear incompetent on this forum while I'm trying get as much info as possible so that when I do go and do the job I have a better idea of what I'm doing and can appear confident in what I'm doing. If it takes me an hour longer than most but I walk away with the job done correct and no mishaps then I've learnt something and can take that confidence with me the next time I come across this.
I appreciate what you are saying though.
G
Gray0689
Ash we all had to Learn mate no question is stupid if you don't know the answer
Just looked at pic again is that a 22mm ballofix at cylinder connection.
Be handy if it is
Just looked at pic again is that a 22mm ballofix at cylinder connection.
Be handy if it is
Ash we all had to Learn mate no question is stupid if you don't know the answer
Just looked at pic again is that a 22mm ballofix at cylinder connection.
Be handy if it is
I don't think it is a ballofix, the picture isn't the clearest.....could be a non return valve? (probably wishful thinking).
thanks for your replies.
E
Ermintrude
No defo need to learn. Is there an external expansion vessel for DHW? If not it's a bubble top or a mess. Bubble top is a megaflow type. There should be instructions on cyl as how u should recharge bubble.
Tbh as for draining it, mains off, open prv on combi valve and make sure it terminates correctly and doesn't back up to the tundish.
every time ive replaced a valve ive had the vacuum break letting the contents of the cylinder spill out.
ash how close is it to me and when are you going?
you can meet my short aris'd self 🙂
every time ive replaced a valve ive had the vacuum break letting the contents of the cylinder spill out.
ash how close is it to me and when are you going?
you can meet my short aris'd self 🙂
E
Ermintrude
What's coming off that tee at inlet of cylinder? Pumped return or a doc?
No defo need to learn. Is there an external expansion vessel for DHW? If not it's a bubble top or a mess. Bubble top is a megaflow type. There should be instructions on cyl as how u should recharge bubble.
It was a megaflow so hopefully it's the bubbletop. This will be a good job for me to become more familiar with this type of work, I have assisted on a few cylinder installs (I did all the work while working as an improver for a firm but it was when I first started so was a bit much to take in). This I will be able to do at my own pace so I'm looking forward to it.
Haven't read the full thread but if youre struggling to isolate anything why not just stick a lever valve at the base of cylinder
What's coming off that tee at inlet of cylinder? Pumped return or a doc?
I'm not sure. What's doc?
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