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Sorry. If u suspect stat has reached set point and thus broken the circuit, connect the two red wires together using the black jumper wire.

I'm a junkie, excuse my last post. Thought stat had two red and one black wire. Just and off the wall thought here, the programmer hasn't been set wrongly? Perhaps for a gravity system??

Also the red wire with just tape on end at boiler end could it be demand signal from 3 port? See if its live when htg only engaged on 3port? If so open stat by turning down, is it still live?

You didn't say if 3 port went over to heating and ran pump and there was no call for heat or if nothing at all happened?
 
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I'm a junkie, excuse my last post. Thought stat had two red and one black wire. Just and off the wall thought here, the programmer hasn't been set wrongly? Perhaps for a gravity system??

Also the red wire with just tape on end at boiler end could it be demand signal from 3 port? See if its live when htg only engaged on 3port? If so open stat by turning down, is it still live?


You didn't say if 3 port went over to heating and ran pump and there was no call for heat or if nothing at all happened?


The 3 port valve did not move at all. No live on the white wire. Also the red with tape on it was live when hot water was. Not heating
 
Remove red wire from stat. Is black still live ?

Am not there now but shall when next there.

Any chance someone can explain to me how to read a wiring diagram for a stat as I have been looking on the danfoss site and don't really understand the diagrams
 
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If you swapped the valve wire for wire the fault was pre existing. Customers rarely tell you the truth.

Depends what model of stat you are using but 4 is normally a neutral connection.
Turn the power off and check with a multi meter which terminals make when you turn the stat up

If you have 2 wires then you should have no neutral, 3 then one of them is neutral.
Stats with relays need the neutral
 
The 3 port valve did not move at all. No live on the white wire. Also the red with tape on it was live when hot water was. Not heating

So the red is the s/l for hw?

Get 240v . If you trick 3 port into going into heating by using signal from hw ( connect heating in place of hw on 3 port. ) when check to see if signal for heating gets to boiler.
 
Screenshot_2013-09-05-07-37-56.jpg

So it Is a standard danfoss one. Must be the 2nd digram a chaps.

Also, when you say make, do you mean continuity? Buzzes?
 
So the red is the s/l for hw?

Get 240v . If you trick 3 port into going into heating by using signal from hw ( connect heating in place of hw on 3 port. ) when check to see if signal for heating gets to boiler.


But the hot water is working fine. Absolutely nothing wrong with that side of things
 
But the hot water is working fine. Absolutely nothing wrong with that side of things

No that's why I said to use it. You know hot water works 100% so if you connect wire s/l for hot water to where s/l for heating should be connected to 3 port, ( so that only heating comes on when u ask for hot water) u know that the three port onwards is wired correctly,
 
But, I will not be able to get the room stat to make as it's not switching. There is not an audible click you see
 
But, I will not be able to get the room stat to make as it's not switching. There is not an audible click you see

What Ermintrude is suggesting is that you test downstream of the 3-port by moving the HW switched live to CH. If that kicks the heating on, called by the HW programmer and cylinder stat, then everything downstream of the 3-port is OK. Then put the wiring back as it was, and link the room stat wires to make that circuit. That will prove everything downstream of the room stat. Or, for the sake of a few quid, swap the room stat!
 
U don't need room stat as the signal is going to come from the hot water s/l. Your pretending that the hw signal is the one from the stat ? The stat isn't being tested .

If u get the two wires from stat and join together u are making stat. This won't cost a penny.


Do u have a multi meter?
 
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If that is the stat it should be wired to 1 and 2 and 4 is a neutral but it will work without the neutral.
Test it anyway to make sure.
 
U don't need room stat as the signal is going to come from the hot water s/l. Your pretending that the hw signal is the one from the stat ? The stat isn't being tested .

If u get the two wires from stat and join together u are making stat. This won't cost a penny.


Do u have a multi meter?

Sorry, was replying to tamz post. Yes I have a multimeter
 
If that is the stat it should be wired to 1 and 2 and 4 is a neutral but it will work without the neutral.
Test it anyway to make sure.

As you can see from my picture tamz, that is how it's wired
 
U can test stat. Using multi meter set it to the continuity / resistance setting
amase8eb.jpg


Then open stat (low temp) put leads on to terminals ( previously disconnecting red And black) there should be no reading / high resistance and no beep.

Close stat (high temp) multi meter should beep and give u a resistance reading
geremury.jpg
 
U can test stat. Using multi meter set it to the continuity / resistance setting
amase8eb.jpg


Then open stat (low temp) put leads on to terminals ( previously disconnecting red And black) there should be no reading / high resistance and no beep.

Close stat (high temp) multi meter should beep and give u a resistance reading
geremury.jpg

When you say 'previously disconnect red and black', do you mean all wires going to room stat?
 
Yes. Because if your testing stat and the wires are in a mess you could be getting continuity through them and not stat.
 
I see. I see in the honeywell guide it says 'remove wire from terminal 3, live to terminal 1 (this is the normal live isn't it), turn stat to call, if no live on 3 then faulty
 
So if I was going to try this test on the danfoss one shown, I would disconnect the wire from 2, live on 1?
 
Can't really see picture on my phone send web link for a butchers
 
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