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A

asadm

Hi All,

I am planning on laying out two zones of Flow and Returns in my property in preparation for a plumber who will install my unvented cylinder and a system boiler.

I anticipate requiring around 80-100 metres of 22mm which will need to be soldered in places. I may also require the 15mm copper tube falling down to the rads but I may do that in plastic as I want it to appear behind the rads and then connect on to the valves from behind, like they do in new builds. I am being advised to achieve this type of connection with 15mm plastic pipe which will drop down from the 22mm copper and then give me enough flex to bend and connect to the valves.

Returning to the original question - what do you advise me to purchase by way of blow torch? As I said, this is a one-off project and the prices of torches vary from £10 to £150.

Thanks
 
Sounds a mess. Have you not asked advice from the guy doing the cylinder and boiler.

Could end up being very expensive for you. I know that if it was me connecting on to a diy'ed system then there would be pages of terms and conditions around filling up testing etc.
 
Hi SimonG,

I am intrigued to understand what is so messy about me laying the flow and return pipes. Admittedly, I am not a plumber but have read extensively, worked on a system previously and have a ecosystem of very helpful people on this forum. I will also plan my work in concert with the plumber.

Perhaps you can help with my question on the blow torch?
 
With a Surefire 2 it would be fun to watch a diyer soldering for the first time. Hot little things, - they don't call them a brazing torch for no reason.
It is the torch I use, but took me a while to get used to it when I first bought one and that's after being used to soldering for years with a conventional torch.
I wouldn't go near any job that the pipes had been installed by a novice, unless I was desperate for work. Bad enough joining to jobs so called plumbers have done.
 
Bet the labour cost savings would be insignificant.
My thoughts are if someone wants to make their plumbing job as cheap as possible by reducing the amount of hours of labour, then they should do any manual work they are capable of to make things faster for the plumbers, but not do the pipework.
 
Check your home insurance first. I'm sure attempted DIY isn't covered. With the best will in the world if you attempt this yourself and something goes wrong you'll have to pay for the rectification work. Yes a plumber can make mistakes but he'll repair it or his insurance company will. Sometimes it pays to pay a professional.
 
Have some faith guys, I haven't even started yet :)

You were novice too once upon a time. With respect, I'm only attempting soldering here. I've installed a system previously; not the neatest but now running for 4 years (still counting). I am absolutely not as knowledgeable as you and I doubt you are as knowledgeable as me when it comes to building Software Applications. I enjoy DIY and would like to do this both for my own satisfaction and save a fortune on labour costs!

On the bending of the 15mm plastic, I've been advised that it should be okay but seen that a couple of you disagree. I have suggested that I can reduce to 10mm if the 15mm is not flexible enough. Feasible?

Also on the SF2, is that really what I should be using given that many of you pros are using this? This is a one-off project for me. YES, there may be a leak or two that I need to remedy...

Thanks for the useful responses. I appreciate it.
 
Isn't software a very different beast though?

Where's the DIY spirit if I pay for every piece of work? I will pay for the boiler and Cylinder installation but piping doesn't feel like its beyond the wit of a DIY'er. Do you seriously feel that a DIY'er shouldn't be touching a set of flow and return pipes?
 

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