TOP TIP (oilies)

[Best]

i do
let it settle !!??!!??

a sack barrow with ply screwed to it
inlet hose, 12v electric pump, water separator, gauze filter and two large can type paper filters with a strainer going to the outlet hose
battery on the bottom with bungies

all inch tapping filters

.......

That's too sophisticated for me! Lol! Are you a professional oil thief?
I find most dirty or water contaminated Kerosine will settle out if you leave it for a few days & you can use the good top stuff - the lighter clean Kerosine. Any really dirty water & oil crud can be recycled to proper place.

 

[Roger Welton]

One of my best jobs was to remove an old tank after cust had converted to ng, they said they had run tank right down to 0 on tankmaster, and shut aga off. I had to remove aga for scrap and empty tank and decommission oil line. I ended up pumping nearly 400l of oil out of tank, that was a good day.

 

[Dannypipe]

Some good tips on this thread! Someone on the forum once said to keep any waste oil to use in a Tilley lamp for night fishing etc. Lovely idea.

Don't fish or have a Tilley lamp but still like the idea!

 

[WHPES]

List of suggested oil engineers tools (by no means definitive)

I only carry one type of flexi hose, the one HWOS calls Long01. If I find a different one on, I change the fittings to suit the Long01 hose. I don't see the point of carrying loads of different ended hoses. In all the time I have been doing boilers I have only ever come across 2 boilers which this hose did not fit and needed an elbow at the opposite end to the pump because of shortage of space.

I recommend that everyone gets into the habit of using flared fittings as opposed to compressions. The best price seems to be HWOS or BES

1. Combustion analyser and printer (I scrounge till rolls from my local pub for it as one lasts ages and I'd never get through a full box of them)
2. Smoke pump and papers
3. Pressure and vacuum gauge set
4. Fuel priming pump (one from an automotive supplier is adequate) and rubber hose that will fit on the end.
5. Bearing puller for removing fans and motor bearings - I find this is the best BERGEN Prof Heavy Duty Bearing Puller 'B' Type 24-55mm on eBay (end time 06-Mar-11 19:11:56 GMT)
6. couple of pairs of 6202RS bearings (from Ebay - but only get good branded ones, SKF, NTC etc) You'll know when the bearings are worn as the burner motor will make a rumbling / whining noise. You can also purchase from an automotive supplier as they are the same as alternator bearings.
7. Pump drive couplings from HWOS
8. Selection of nipples, elbows, couplings etc from the fittings page at HWOS
9. Pipe flaring tool
10. OFTEC forms - servicing and commissioning, oil storage risk assessment, installation
11. One of those magnetic pickup tools which looks like a radio aerial with a magnet on the end
12. 1/4" ratchet set and extension pieces (get a good quality set such as Britool)
13. T handle long reach hex set
14. Screwdriver handled socket driver
15. glass rope and glass rope adhesive
16. STAG B jointing compound (prefer this to Heldite another post mentioned as Heldite is awful to get off your fingers etc)
17. PTFE tape (normal and gas tite (yellow spool))
18. rolls of 10mm and 8mm copper pipe (white plastic coated) and roll of uncoated
19. spare 3m 65 and 90 degreesC Teddington KBB fire valves (you can get more of different sizes as you go on) 1.5m is too small for many sites.
20. GOOD selection of nozzles (from 0.50 to 1.0 USgall/h - larger ones you won't come across often and can order them as required. Get just kerosene ones to begin with (ES & EH). Some boilers will specify W nozzles you can buy as and when on next day delivery)
21. PLENTY of 10mm brass inserts for copper pipe (HWOS do packs of 100)
22. Selection of steel nuts for when you loose some behind the back of a boiler so you don't need to spend ages looking for them.
23. Heat proof gloves for dismantling hot combustion chambers (I use welders gloves)
24. disposable vinyl gloves like the dentist uses
25. Barrier cream
26. Beaded hand cleaner
27. Hand cream
28. One of each of the cleaning brushes that HWOS do
29. Container to put waste oil into when cleaning out filters etc
30. Spare filter elements (just get the two Crossland ones to begin with)
31. Vacuum cleaner and spare bags (I use an old VAX cleaner but any will do)
32. Dust sheets
33. Kneepads (a MUST HAVE!)
34. Tub of fire cement
35. Tube of heatseal silicone and gun
36. Multimeter
37. Spare 3 amp fuses (a lot of boilers just have 13 amp fitted so should be changed)
38. Boiler manufacturers literature to show to customers when persuading them to change to a new boiler.
39. long 18/19mm drill but for drillling holes through walls for oil lines / fire valve capillaries
40. Parts organiser boxes for all your fittings
41. Nozzle box
42. Set of flat, pozi and philips screwdrivers
43. 8mm copper pipe and fittings for where you have a tank lower than the boiler (lot of people post problems on here caused by too large diameter pipe where tank is lower than boiler - always follow the table in the OFTEC book!)
44. Set of combination spanners from 6mm up to 21mm and inlcuding ALL the inbetween sizes
45. Scraper (paint scraper)
46. Selection of metric machine screws (probably be able to get an assortment box from Toolstation these days)
47. Torch (head torches are useful)
48. Tape measure
49. Circlip pliers
50. pump pliers
51. Standard pliers/nippers
52. Set of adjustable spanners
53. Selection of brass bushes, 3/8 to 1/4, 1/2 to 1/4 and 1/2 to 3/8 for example
54. Mini pipe bender
55. Round profile drift for reshaping deformed pipe ends.
56. Small flat, rat tail and half round files
57. Set of T handled Torx drivers
58. Selection of o rings including 13mm ID x 4mm for Sika flow switches

From the sticky thread

Since then I find that the HWOS Long01 dont last more than a couple of years so I have switched to the green bio equivalent.

 

[SimonG]

I see hwos or renting analysers. 60 odd deposit and 20 plus vat a month. Get the analyser and printer. No callibration costs.

 

[WHPES]

One of my best jobs was to remove an old tank after cust had converted to ng, they said they had run tank right down to 0 on tankmaster, and shut aga off. I had to remove aga for scrap and empty tank and decommission oil line. I ended up pumping nearly 400l of oil out of tank, that was a good day.

Had one better than that - Some developers needed an AGA and oil tank ripping out very quickly for building work to commence - how soon could I do it and could I give a price? I thought and gave them a verbal quote over the phone, allowing a contingency for unknowns and they said OK get down here ASAP as its holding work up. There was a 2,000 litre tank full to the brim! Best job ever! I got about £80 from the scrappy for the old AGA and the tank too!

 

[bennygas]

What a crackin' thread - I'm totally green when it comes to oil. Thanks chaps. This place is ace.

 

[Bunker]

Dammit Best, I was going to say that for 12mm spanner, had to use it today!
Anyone come up with a novel idea to get to the 2 x 5mm allen key bolts out, that hold in (I think) sterling burners into SE Worcester heatslaves? Possibly one of the most annoying blots to get too.

Yes, they are an awkward bar steward. I use a very small goblin with strong little arms to climb in and unwind them. Hope that helps.

 

[WHPES]

Whoever came up with that method of connection for the WB heatslave boilers cannot have been an engineer. Far more sensible would have been a nut connection like for Riello burners which you can at least get a socket, extension and ratchet onto. IT's a bit like the daft angled valves on the Heatlsaves which you can't get at when you need to change them (as you invariably need to do because they are notorious for leaking) because of the lip on the air box, and also the position of them which sometimes leads to pinching off the flexi fuel line. IMO the heatslaves are one of the worst designed boilers out. They should have just used a type of burner with an air duct connection instead of that silly air box business.

 

[Killy Bing]

How about the danesmoors with their burner guard, every time you pull them off you skin the back of your fingers with the casing on each side!

 

[Bunker]

Good job they have been completely redesigned, front RDB's, exp vessel swings out the way on a hinged bracket...all looks good to me

 

[kimbo]

Good job they have been completely redesigned, front RDB's, exp vessel swings out the way on a hinged bracket...all looks good to me

I have just fitted one I wouldnt go for another there is too much plastic in them. The 3 port valve is plastic and there are too many sensors for my liking. If you ever get a problem that is not burner related I think it will be a call to wb for their engineer. Too many fault codes that arent listed and there is a computer jack plug in the front of it that only wb will accesd. Most pipes are pushed into o rings secured by clips. Only time will tell. Nice and quiet.

 

[SimonG]

Wondered who would be the first manufacturer to have to plug the laptop into. No surprise its worcester, most of their engineers need as much help as possible.

 

[Roger Welton]

From the sticky thread

Since then I find that the HWOS Long01 dont last more than a couple of years so I have switched to the green bio equivalent.

Interesting, I've just swapped they other way and started using the long life ones as the green ones were going hard after a couple of years :mad2:

 

[kimbo]

I found that the black ones were cracking when going back for a second service. The customers were complaining of oil smells as well. I changed them for the braided or green ones and the smell went.

 

[SimonG]

Just using the braided ones.

 

[Killy Bing]

Just using the braided ones.

I use the braided too.

 

[gasmanrob]

Have often thought about sitting oil exams, is it worth it, is it like gas where there are different levels of competence for domestic/commercial used to work on oil when I was an apprentice but haven't touched it since, there's a fair bit around here and doing the LPG I often get asked if I do oil too. And is it expensive to sit the often stuff?

 

[Killy Bing]

Have a read rob on the tickets

http://www.oftec.org/Media/Default/DocGalleries/Registration forms/GB_Full_Application_Form_R250.pdf

Not many too it but i think the training is a touch pricey.
not to mention the registration eith oftec

A few extra tools too, flaring kit, reemer, pressure/vacuum gauges, smoke pump, oil primer and more

imho to do it effectively you need to have quite a stock of bits, hoses, nozzles, filters/elements, photo cells and such

i know one member carries 8ks worth of just oil spares

 

[gasmanrob]

Wow 8k that's ALOT of dough but if you can rectify a fault or remedy poor spray on the spot then people will think the world of you and recommend you and your services, seeing as oil is often in remote areas where it's colder and open to the elements

 

[WHPES]

I found that the black ones were cracking when going back for a second service. The customers were complaining of oil smells as well. I changed them for the braided or green ones and the smell went.

Been doing that too. Using up the black ones on external boilers now.

 

[Best]

Black hoses are scary - they crack whole way through & usually on a bend, I find.
The red hoses are good though & I have cut old red hoses that had small cracks but discovered the red is just a thin outer cover with a heavy black hose underneath.
The braided Riello hoses are poor & need replaced every year or two to be safe. Strangely the braided hoses with Electro Oil burners last & last unless abused badly.

 

[MarkOil]

I use the black ones because they are cheaper, custards like things cheap, but I suppose you get what you pay for.
But aren't you "supposed" to change them every year regardless??

Bunker - I like the idea of your goblin friend, where do I get one? Haha

 

[Soggy]

If the oil line does not have a date stamp, it 'must' be changed annually. As far as I know, the only ones which HWOS sell with this stamp are the green bio hoses.

Date stamped long life hoses have to be replaced every 5 years. Beware of some of the black long life hoses on the market, they do not have a date stamp so must be replaced annually.

 

[Roger Welton]

Most braided hoses have the date on the fitting at one end or another, I seem to reqularly come across ones from the early 90's.