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what would you recommend

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In that case sleeve anchors bottom, screw top batten to the two end pieces and grip fill the top edge that meets the ceiling.
 
mutley racers said:
The stud wall will be on the right hand side of the shower tray where soil pipe runs. So the width of shower tray. I need them really to be at the centre at the back where bath is now.

So just use normal tray with riser kit. No upstand yea
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No mate, you will need an upstand unless the waste pipework is already sunk under the floor, otherwise you won't get the fall.
 
Cool now you have to figure out how to do it, right ?

Like I said in my pm, nay bother

Ps, cheap vanity unit in Wickes £89 notes not bad looking neither
 
Upstand is the shape of tray or something isnt it? Something to do with tiles. Definitely need the feet for the fall.
 
I thought up stands were the lip on top to tile in to and legs were riser kits
 
yeah thats what i thought too - upstands were for the tiler to tile onto thereby effecting a watertight seal, and riser kits were legs to rise the tray up inorder to provide access to trap etc
 
Phil_Plumb said:
yeah thats what i thought too - upstands were for the tiler to tile onto thereby effecting a watertight seal, and riser kits were legs to rise the tray up inorder to provide access to trap etc
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Are yes, now I see what you mean I've heard riser kits being called upstand a in the past. In that case I would recommend a tray with upstand to tile down onto. That way it ain't ever going to leak at the bottom seem.
 
Also look what I found whil searching for mains stopcock 20130710_113103.jpg
 
Shall I take it all back to brick and dot and dab or get a plasterer to fix it? Didn't mention to the client the possibility of this happening
 
dot and dabbing is fairly easy and staright forward use 12mm moister resistant everywhere apart from the shower area use a cement board there some can be adhesive on some cant so you may have to batten out a little bit but from reading your posts you are studwalling so that's all ok if you dot and dab using 8x4s I allow 1 bag of drywall addy per 2/3 boards depending on how far out the walls are you will need a solid bead of addy at somepoint behind the board for fire regs I put mine at the top and if you get the nack and get all your dots and the solid bed something like the same depth place the board onto the addy lift up off the floor tight to the celling with a pry bar and wedge then tap into level and squaire I use a 1800 and a 1200 level for dot and dabbing and a framing square from screwfix to ensure my internal corners are true in all ways when dot and dabbing give the walls a quick coat of srb thinned with water about 1 parts srb to 2 parts water and remember if your tilling it the plasterboard can hold more weight in tiles and adhesive unskimmed than it can when fully skimmed so just tank where appropriate and tile the lot hope this helps
 
give the walls a sbr befor dor and dabbing I didn't make that clear sorry and then follow manufactures destructions on the tile adhesive after when using bal tile addy I like to use bal's Sbr type gear just for any potential comeback
 
its very similar to pva but with the heat and moister it wont become jelly like apparently pva does I have probably done 20/30 bathrooms using pva and not had a problem but from speaking to a plaster'er mate of mine he says use srb if the wall is very long like say over 4M it is sometimes worth stringing a chalk line and snapping it across the floor first to make sure your boards don't end up looking like the north sea
 
I also forgot to add since talking to my plaster mate probs 2 years ago I have only used sbr and not have a issue! and if your using 8x4s a solid bead at the top then 7 dobs down and 4 dobs across is plenty!!
 
SBR is amazing stuff. You can put it on the dustiest, crumbliest, oldest wall, and when it's dried, all the dust is properly stuck to the wall and its tacky to the touch. Brilliant.
 
did you do any today mutley? how did you get on? its a messy job but fairly easy don't you think?
 
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