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When Customer Says You're Too Expensive

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mrs Tara Plumbi
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I wouldn't put them up here!! Too many snots and scorch marks, the perfectionists on here would have a field day!!
 
I think it's better to put more solder on then to have to go back and resolder a joint!! And scorch marks are from laziness, but I am out to make a living not do a perfect job!!
 
I do wipe the joint but solder doesn't move once it is on!! Too much flux probably!! The joints on here are perfect, just the right amount of solder, all shiny and clean. No snots, no scorch marks. Each joint must take about 8 minutes each!! I have used many heat mats and they all get burnt!! Heat mats burning??? Syrely they should be heat resistant. I don't have loads of scorch marks, mainly above boilers as the pipes are always so close to the wall you can't help but get scorch marks. I do have pride in my work but don't look for perfection. Mistakes happen and not everything can be perfect.
 
And then you look at BG installs and think they are charging £4-£5k for that terrible job, leaving it leaking and putting filling loops on mains inlet to combi's. Surely if people are happy to accept this then a few snots and scorch marks aren't the end of the world when I double check everything, do everything exactly how the customer wants it and to the regs and give customers the best solution to there problems.
 
Will try wiping it before soldering, good tip. I got taught at college to flux female end. But When doing gas course they say to do male end!! We got taught nothing at colleg, was taught by a bloke that came from a training centre, owned his own training centre and got sacked for having no qualifications. Absolute waste of time. Maybe I should have some more pride in my soldering, but I just want it to not leak. Nothing worse then a leaking joint at 5 pm!!
 
And no it doesn't drip after it's wiped, it drips and then it is impossible to clean it off
 
If your burning things then also look at your torch selection domestic really dosent need mapp gas unless your doing 28mm+ all day long. It burns the flux and the pipe making it difficult to get a nice run.

also rothy have two heads the super fire and the thinner sure fire much more precise I personaly use the tx504 it's flame is more adjustable and the head swivels for better access
 
Got rid of pro about 4 months ago and it made a massive difference, had the smaller nozzle, didn't find it made a difference, turning the gas down works brilliantly on 15mm but doesn't go all the way round for 22mm
 
Pardon me if I don't answer Simon but I am a complete idiot and shouldn't be a plumber and apparently my name is jarse, not that I take it personally or anything
 
Not every joint I do is perfect and no one here can claim that every joint they do is, but just limit the risk of a messy joint, I personally touch the solder at the rear of the joint to fill it where if it did run you wouldn't see it, it doesn't take any extra time to solder other any other method. But we all have different gripes and beliefs
 
gasmanrob said:
Not every joint I do is perfect and no one here can claim that every joint they do is, but just limit the risk of a messy joint, I personally touch the solder at the rear of the joint to fill it where if it did run you wouldn't see it, it doesn't take any extra time to solder other any other method. But we all have different gripes and beliefs
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I do this, which is great for upright joints, what do you do on horizontal joints? Gravity does seem to pull it down!!
 
Whilst the heat is still applied a quick flick with the tip of the solder over the snot usually knocks it off, I am also guilty of brushing it off with the flux brush if I notice it before it's set
 
Why not use end feed fittings & leaded solder for all heating work? Less heat needed & cheaper. You really can't go wrong & you can wipe the joint easily even when you pull the flame off.
Lead free soldering I admit I find I have to concentrate to do them tidy.
 
Killy Bing said:
I have never used leaded solder ......
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You must be too young! :smile:
Try it & you won't want to use the lead free.
Lead solder melts quicker & hardens slower & frankly is very easy on end feed soldering.
Obviously I wouldn't use it on anything other than heating pipes.
 
Unleaded is always on a green roll, leaded is on yellow and sometimes red.

I won't mix them up. I mentioned on here that most tap fittings (including kitchen taps) have brass containing lead in them so it is amusing that we are now so hot on this. I agree with the sentiment.

Right now I'm using lead free for everything as I bought a bulk load of it. Enough to last me a couple of years, but I should buy a roll of leaded as I'll be back to almost twenty quid a roll of unleaded after this lot runs out.
 
Best said:
You must be too young! :smile:
Try it & you won't want to use the lead free.
Lead solder melts quicker & hardens slower & frankly is very easy on end feed soldering.
Obviously I wouldn't use it on anything other than heating pipes.
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Haha, im only 21.....
i'll grab a roll and give it a go.
 
I only really solder gas pipe don't really do much potable find lead solder much easier to use and needs smaller flame on your blowlamp.
 
I used only Butane gas for years. Habit really, but more than powerful enough for up to 28mm except in severe weather/strong winds outside or wet pipes. These modern torches like the Surefire (I use) are a bit too powerful for most normal soldering & i find i need to back off with the flame.
I use leaded solder with Fluxite traditional flux & the solder flows just as if it was heated grease. You can wipe the joint with a cotton rag before it hardens & then touch of heat again.
 
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