Advice on heating in a new build property

[slacky]

Hey guys

looking for abit of advice on my heating system in a house I’ve just moved into. Last week I had to bleed a few radiators which I thought was normal but today I’ve had to go round bleeding them again and there was quite abit of air in them. How often should they need to be bleed? The down stairs toilet needed bleeding first time round but now it’s stone cold but doesnt need bleeding. What could be wrong with this? Also a few radiators are hot to touch but if I put my hand over the top it doesn’t feel like much heats coming off them and lastly for a new build property it’s costing anything from £4-6a day for gas and the heatings only on a few hours a day but doesn’t seem to reach temperature. For a new build property it seems abit excessive my old house was built In 1960ish and didn’t cost this much to run.

any help would be appreciated

thanks

 

[king of pipes]

Yes that is how it works i would say it working correctly, is there a auto bypass on the boiler pipework ? a few pictures would help us advise you further normally double panels downstairs , sinlges upstairs but you need to be able to achieve a comfortable temperature . Kop

 

[slacky]

Shouldnt the valve close when the cylinder stat says its to temp? ive been toa showroom of the same house as mine all radiators are the same as mine apart from one on the top floor. But the cylinder is on the 1st floor where as mines on the second floor. Would this make a difference?

Would i of affected my warrenty by changing some of the rads?

heres a pic of the cylinder pipework

 

[king of pipes]

Yes Hot water valve should close on tempreture 60 ° c , cylinder position shouldnt really matter providing its fitted correctly i wouldnt think changing a few rads is a proplem . Kop

 

[slacky]

I’m not sure it’s closing when the stat gets to temp. I’ve got the plumbers coming round Thursday to check it. Will he have to remove it and physically check it’s opening and closing when it should ?

im going to give balancing the system a go but unsure which thermometer to get. Any one recommend on for a one time use ?

 

[Scott_D]

Is the bypass letting heat back to the boiler during normal use

 

[slacky]

I’m not sure what that means 🙈

 

[king of pipes]

I’m not sure it’s closing when the stat gets to temp. I’ve got the plumbers coming round Thursday to check it. Will he have to remove it and physically check it’s opening and closing when it should ?

im going to give balancing the system a go but unsure which thermometer to get. Any one recommend on for a one time use ?

Get him to check the pump after all its the pump that circulates the water round the radiators it could be faulty test the auto bypass also. Kop

 

[slacky]

Im having the day off thursday to check what he actually does. How would he check the pumps working and auto bypass? hes ment to be bringing out the spec with him but ive got a feeling itll just be rad sizes it wont show any calculations for room sizes etc

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Pumps he will just put his hand on them

auto bypass shouldn’t be the same temp as the flow when it’s running only when a port valve closes eg it’s forced through the bypass then

 

[king of pipes]

I cant make out from your picture what pump you have is it a smart pump ? these adapt to the amount of load needed at different times there should be options to change the speed and set to a constant speed setting , the auto bypass should open when the system thermostats are satisfied and close the 2 port valves this allows the pump to overrun usually for 3 minutes to displace heat from the boiler this is the only time it should be open . Kop

 

[slacky]

Here’s a picture of the pump

 

[king of pipes]

Try adjusting the speed set it to a constant speed setting its set for differential pressure at present . Kop

 

[slacky]

well the plumber came today and did bare minimum once again. He had a piece of paper with an order sheet saying which radiators to install in what room.Thats not what i asked for i wanted to see the room calculations but he just said this is what we get told to put in. The system is ment to have a outside temperature stat but this isnt installed. He went rather quite when he realised this would this affect much? he basically said theres nothing else they can do. When i told him about the stats reaching just below the set temperature it clicked off but kicked in within 5-10 minutes because the temp doesnt really go any higher he just looked at me likes it right

Ive had a go at balancing the downstairs rads but was struggling to get the 12 degrees difference when opening the lockshield it seemed both sides was going up in temperature.

Ive been trying a different approach ive set the heating to come on at half 4 and temp to 24 degrees then to go off at half 7 hoping the extra couple of degrees will compensate not having the temp set to 22 degrees and being on till half 9. I turned the downstairs heating on at 2 while i had a play trying to balance the rads but gave up, by the time it turned off 5 hours later at half 7 it went from 18 degrees to 22 degrees so 4 degrees in 5 hours.

Im starting to doubt myself like im expecting to much

 

[king of pipes]

Did you set the pump to a constant setting ?????
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Did you set the pump to a constant setting

 

[slacky]

Yeah I did it this morning. Think it’s on speed 2 if that makes a difference ?

 

[king of pipes]

Post a picture please ? Set it to constant speed 3 see if that improves heat up

 

[slacky]

Set the pump to 3 pretty much the same. What I have noticed is when the boiler and hot water are on at the same time the temperature on the front of the boiler was 65 and most rads in the house was warm not hot but when the hot waters off the temp goes back to 80 causing the rads to get a lot hotter. Is this right ?

ive also purchased a thermal imaging camera to get for any Heatloss but my experience with this is next to nothing. Can any one shed any light on these images ?

 

[EvilDrPorkChop]

Set the pump to 3 pretty much the same. What I have noticed is when the boiler and hot water are on at the same time the temperature on the front of the boiler was 65 and most rads in the house was warm not hot but when the hot waters off the temp goes back to 80 causing the rads to get a lot hotter. Is this right ?

ive also purchased a thermal imaging camera to get for any Heatloss but my experience with this is next to nothing. Can any one shed any light on these images ?

On an unrelated note which camera did you get? I'm looking at buying one soon.

Your boiler isn't large enough to do HW and the Rads at the same time. So you either need to stagger your times or leave your HW on 24/7. Or do a bit of altering with the wiring so it only heats the HW then switches back over to CH.

Does the house warm up fine when it's just doing the central heating and not the HW?

 

[slacky]

It’s the flir one pro. It plugs into your phone and you use it with the flir app. It works ok abit laggy but does the trick.

when the hot waters off the house can takes 2-3 hours to reach temp

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Can you take them from outside when it’s cold with the house warm ?

 

[slacky]

I took one but unsure if I did it right. Does it matter if it’s in the dark?

 

[Chuck]

I took one but unsure if I did it right. Does it matter if it’s in the dark?

Nothing remarkable on this image or the others, you have a fairly well-insulated house.

 

[garygvl]

Set the pump to 3 pretty much the same. What I have noticed is when the boiler and hot water are on at the same time the temperature on the front of the boiler was 65 and most rads in the house was warm not hot but when the hot waters off the temp goes back to 80 causing the rads to get a lot hotter. Is this right ?

ive also purchased a thermal imaging camera to get for any Heatloss but my experience with this is next to nothing. Can any one shed any light on these images ?

On an earlier post you said you had turned the stat on the front of the boiler from max to the eco setting. Is this still the case. You now say boiler goes to 80 with just heating on and 65 with both on. You sure you’ve not got weather compensation fitted the only thing being the temps should be the other way round if you have. Boiler would default to 80 when hw demand but vary when no hw demand

 

[garygvl]

looking at the history of your posts since 2014 it seems you have problems where ever you live