Yup it is a combi boiler. No water tank heating coil.
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Has my builder ruined my boiler?
- Thread starter windle poones
- Start date
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- boiler
They should really have a) piped in a bypass and b) piped the filling loop to the return side as this would alleviate the filling issue slightly. To be fair when properly filling you should manually lock open the zone valves anyway using the levers on them. The filling loop isn’t really a problem as you can do the levers. The bypass is. I’m calling builder or non qualified/educated install
I am not 100% sure on what you are suggesting, but I think you are advising that the Potterton Puma 80 boiler (Combination boiler) as installed in my system. Was probably OK before the central heating side, (Pipe and radiator side) was modified. I therefore need to call the builder back to address the issue which appears to be caused by no effective by pass fitted when the pipe work was modified?
The filling loop is on the flow. On that boiler the diverter valve opens when the diverter valve gets up to a certain temperature causing it to open.
I will remain with what I said before get them back as if its firing when both valves are shut it will be a simple wiring fault. Also ask them to put a bypass on it as I said in my last post.
Thanks Riley, the only problem I now have is, the extension build is new and I have not signed off on the builder's snagging list. So a small final payment is due. I don't know whether I should trust him to put it right or to call in a known good plumber to rectify his work. 😵
Were it me I would insist on a proper plumber and tell him you’ll be knocking the difference off his bill. He may, fairly, insist on being given the chance to put it right. What has been done is 90% right in terms of building regs but it’s Your call really.
Two questions:
Who rebuilt such an old boiler?
Do you have a thermostat in each zone?
Two questions:
Who rebuilt such an old boiler?
Do you have a thermostat in each zone?
B
Burger
Any of the flow and return isolation valves closed under the boiler?
In answer to your two questions:
1. It was rebuilt by a tech specialist from the company that now owns Potterton. I had an expensive maintenance contract with British gas. During one of their service visits their engineer bodged and damaged the boiler. I refused to accept a new Worcester Boch as a replacement. The rebuild was paid for by British gas after a long running dispute where they finally admitted liability.
2. Each zone is controlled by separately wired "Floureon heating thermostats". They are highly accurate I have tested them with an infra red sensing meter.
1. It was rebuilt by a tech specialist from the company that now owns Potterton. I had an expensive maintenance contract with British gas. During one of their service visits their engineer bodged and damaged the boiler. I refused to accept a new Worcester Boch as a replacement. The rebuild was paid for by British gas after a long running dispute where they finally admitted liability.
2. Each zone is controlled by separately wired "Floureon heating thermostats". They are highly accurate I have tested them with an infra red sensing meter.
I'm gobsmacked he refused a new boiler.
Hi Millsy,
My reasoning was. The existing boiler was the most reliable I have ever owned. It had given me 25 years’ service at the point when it was bodged. It had always been maintained to a good standard. I have always been fan of the old saying “If it aint broke don’t fix or replace it”.
In another home I had a boiler new in 1964, by Valliant. It was still working fine when I sold the home in 2003. Both boilers were always properly maintained.
I had considered the Worcester Boch, but had heard they were only slightly more efficient and could be troublesome unless I was replacing the entire system, pipes and rads. My own research led me to believe I would be lucky to get seven years from one - WB.
My reasoning was. The existing boiler was the most reliable I have ever owned. It had given me 25 years’ service at the point when it was bodged. It had always been maintained to a good standard. I have always been fan of the old saying “If it aint broke don’t fix or replace it”.
In another home I had a boiler new in 1964, by Valliant. It was still working fine when I sold the home in 2003. Both boilers were always properly maintained.
I had considered the Worcester Boch, but had heard they were only slightly more efficient and could be troublesome unless I was replacing the entire system, pipes and rads. My own research led me to believe I would be lucky to get seven years from one - WB.
No not new pipe work. I had the whole system cleaned by a guy specialising in power flushing, that's all he did. He forward and reverse power flushed to remove the debris that had collected in the radiators and the pipe work. All rads where individually disconnected and power flushed. This was after the whole system had been flushed through. The process took five hours from start to finish.
In retrospect I probably should have gone for a new boiler, maybe a Valliant. I had checked spares availability for the Puma range before making my decision and was told the heat exchanger for the Puma 100 had been discontinued, but all parts were still available for the 80. However that was 2 years ago.
It’s amazing how quick things change but if your boiler is in good working order then I keep everything crossed for you that you don’t require any further repairs any time soon. Anyway keep us updated as to how you resolve the bypass issue
Don't blame you for keeping it. I'm keeping my Glow Worm Ultimate going for as long as I can.
We've taken condensing boilers out which have been 6/7 years old which were beyond repairing. Admittedly these were probably ones that haven't been well maintained or fitted well.
We've taken condensing boilers out which have been 6/7 years old which were beyond repairing. Admittedly these were probably ones that haven't been well maintained or fitted well.
They refused a Worcester.....that's a no brainer really.
It was my understanding that you required two taps by regs anyway?
You can see why you have the NRV on the cold, as it's less of a dead leg.
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