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They should really have a) piped in a bypass and b) piped the filling loop to the return side as this would alleviate the filling issue slightly. To be fair when properly filling you should manually lock open the zone valves anyway using the levers on them. The filling loop isn’t really a problem as you can do the levers. The bypass is. I’m calling builder or non qualified/educated install
 
I am not 100% sure on what you are suggesting, but I think you are advising that the Potterton Puma 80 boiler (Combination boiler) as installed in my system. Was probably OK before the central heating side, (Pipe and radiator side) was modified. I therefore need to call the builder back to address the issue which appears to be caused by no effective by pass fitted when the pipe work was modified?
 
Don’t call a builder. Builders build plumbers plumb. They have the right idea in so much as the house sounds like it should be zoned but a bypass will deal with heat once the heating requirement is satisfied
 
As per MIs

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So I maintain there is literally no reason why it shouldn’t go up as well as down to the two motorised valves

The filling loop is on the flow. On that boiler the diverter valve opens when the diverter valve gets up to a certain temperature causing it to open.

I will remain with what I said before get them back as if its firing when both valves are shut it will be a simple wiring fault. Also ask them to put a bypass on it as I said in my last post.
 
Thanks Riley, the only problem I now have is, the extension build is new and I have not signed off on the builder's snagging list. So a small final payment is due. I don't know whether I should trust him to put it right or to call in a known good plumber to rectify his work. o_O
 
Were it me I would insist on a proper plumber and tell him you’ll be knocking the difference off his bill. He may, fairly, insist on being given the chance to put it right. What has been done is 90% right in terms of building regs but it’s Your call really.
Two questions:
Who rebuilt such an old boiler?
Do you have a thermostat in each zone?
 
No I think it’s as Bogrodder said there’s a non return on the diverter
 
Last edited:
In answer to your two questions:
1. It was rebuilt by a tech specialist from the company that now owns Potterton. I had an expensive maintenance contract with British gas. During one of their service visits their engineer bodged and damaged the boiler. I refused to accept a new Worcester Boch as a replacement. The rebuild was paid for by British gas after a long running dispute where they finally admitted liability.

2. Each zone is controlled by separately wired "Floureon heating thermostats". They are highly accurate I have tested them with an infra red sensing meter.
 
Hi Millsy,

My reasoning was. The existing boiler was the most reliable I have ever owned. It had given me 25 years’ service at the point when it was bodged. It had always been maintained to a good standard. I have always been fan of the old saying “If it aint broke don’t fix or replace it”.

In another home I had a boiler new in 1964, by Valliant. It was still working fine when I sold the home in 2003. Both boilers were always properly maintained.

I had considered the Worcester Boch, but had heard they were only slightly more efficient and could be troublesome unless I was replacing the entire system, pipes and rads. My own research led me to believe I would be lucky to get seven years from one - WB.
 
I’d imagine efficiency wise you are far worse off but I do agree with your adage re if it ain’t broke. Plus I’d imagine parts will be scarce for the puma in the next few years. Did you not also say you’d had new pipework etc?
 
No not new pipe work. I had the whole system cleaned by a guy specialising in power flushing, that's all he did. He forward and reverse power flushed to remove the debris that had collected in the radiators and the pipe work. All rads where individually disconnected and power flushed. This was after the whole system had been flushed through. The process took five hours from start to finish.
 
In retrospect I probably should have gone for a new boiler, maybe a Valliant. I had checked spares availability for the Puma range before making my decision and was told the heat exchanger for the Puma 100 had been discontinued, but all parts were still available for the 80. However that was 2 years ago.
 
It’s amazing how quick things change but if your boiler is in good working order then I keep everything crossed for you that you don’t require any further repairs any time soon. Anyway keep us updated as to how you resolve the bypass issue
 
I am surprised "well maintained" and "British Gas" cropped up in the same sentence,TBH.

And, to be pedantic, the filling loop NRV should be on the Cold mains side.
 
Not doubting you but why??? It always made sense to me when there are two taps but in the instance where it’s tap hose nrv it makes sense because you’d never be able to remove the hose correctly
 
Not doubting you but why??? It always made sense to me when there are two taps but in the instance where it’s tap hose nrv it makes sense because you’d never be able to remove the hose correctly

It was my understanding that you required two taps by regs anyway?

You can see why you have the NRV on the cold, as it's less of a dead leg.
 
But there’s no dead leg because the hose should be removed, alright maybe mm in it but seriously.
 

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