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One final question.

Should I fit the new 22mm auto bypass valve to replace what is there or should it go after the pump but before the motorised valves.

Thanks. Paul
 
Has a Plumber put that in?

Hi sorry couldn't reply properly earlier.

Yes following your previous advice a plumber did fit it, new pump, new valve and I fitted the magnaguard. It stopped for a few days but when the air was completely out of the system it started again. I questioned whether a 22mm auto bypass valve was required and he said this will do the same.
I am perfectly capable of fitting it myself but am not sure where to fit it. Do I install in the same place or before the valves but after the pump.

I even re installed the radiator and it bangs.
Cheers. Paul.
 
It will do there if it is 22mm and automatic. I am presuming you have a 3 mtr min loop from boiler and back to boiler via by-pass?

upload_2017-11-15_20-11-6.jpeg
 
It will do there if it is 22mm and automatic. I am presuming you have a 3 mtr min loop from boiler and back to boiler via by-pass?

View attachment 31830

The distance from the boiler to the by pass is about ten meters. I will change the size of the plumbing and use solder joints as it looks a bit messy. I can fit it somewhere else if it works better. I would rather it be correct. Wish I had done the work myself.

Does the pressure have to be regulated by the pump flow speed. Cheers.
 
The distance from the boiler to the by pass is about ten meters. I will change the size of the plumbing and use solder joints as it looks a bit messy. I can fit it somewhere else if it works better. I would rather it be correct. Wish I had done the work myself.

Does the pressure have to be regulated by the pump flow speed. Cheers.

It's fine there, 22mm with either a straight valve like the one I showed you or an angled one where the elbow is
 
I
Pump is on 2 as the system is quite large 12 rads.
Cheers.

If it works well it's fine. You want them on the lowest setting that works and gives the right flow and return temps.

With the valve:-
screw it shut, turn on the heating and hot water so both Motorised valves are open and the pipes start to get hot. Slowly open the Auto by-pass 1/4 turn at a time, (a few seconds in between turning), until you feel hot water flow through the by-pass. Then close it back around a half turn.


That's the best explanation I can give on a Forum. I would be going to greater lengths to set things up and balance the system if I were doing this in person but it will do!
 
I


If it works well it's fine. You want them on the lowest setting that works and gives the right flow and return temps.

With the valve:-
screw it shut, turn on the heating and hot water so both Motorised valves are open and the pipes start to get hot. Slowly open the Auto by-pass 1/4 turn at a time, (a few seconds in between turning), until you feel hot water flow through the by-pass. Then close it back around a half turn.


That's the best explanation I can give on a Forum. I would be going to greater lengths to set things up and balance the system if I were doing this in person but it will do!

Thanks I'll do it on Saturday and let you know how it goes.

Cheers.
 
Please do come back and tell us how you went on.
Hi.

I fitted the valve where suggested and unfortunately it still bangs, perhaps even louder. I can't get water to run through the valve unless I restrict the hot water flow, even with it turned down to 0.1 bar, the lowest it will go.

Picture attached.

Cheers.

IMG_3234.JPG
 
Okay. That's fine. If you were running it in flashing mode, then it would not be running fixed-speed, and the automatic bypass valve wouldn't be able to work as it should.
 
Okay. That's fine. If you were running it in flashing mode, then it would not be running fixed-speed, and the automatic bypass valve wouldn't be able to work as it should.

I'm not sure it is. I can only get water to flow through when I restrict the flow on the hot water.

I would have thought 0.01 bar would be open all the time. Any suggestions.

Cheers.
 
When you say restrict the flow on hot water,is this when the system is running eg demand from heating/hot water? The hot water coil should have a balancing valve on it that should be restricted (which from the pic you have one after the 2port) to stop the heat just whizzing around the coil and giving less to heating
 
When you say restrict the flow on hot water,is this when the system is running eg demand from heating/hot water? The hot water coil should have a balancing valve on it that should be restricted (which from the pic you have one after the 2port) to stop the heat just whizzing around the coil and giving less to heating

The balancing valve is fully open. When I mentioned restricting the flow I shut it off. Are you saying this valve should be half turned off or similar. Is this likely to contribute to the banging.

Cheers.
 
It should be restricted yes,but are you only getting flow through the by-pass valve when there is still demand for ch or hot water an your closing the balancing valve?
 
It should be restricted yes,but are you only getting flow through the by-pass valve when there is still demand for ch or hot water an your closing the balancing valve?

If I run the water and heating separately or even both of them together I can't get any water to pass through the bypass valve. I can only get it to pass through when I close the balancing valve with the hot water on demand.
 
Another point I forgot to add. If I turn the pump off at the fused spur, it doesn't bang. Don't know whether this has any bearing on the fault but thought I would mention it.

Cheers.
 
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