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re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!

If you need to replace a gasket on a boiler, say around the burner, cos the old one disentegrates once removed (which happens) and your supplier wont have them for a day or 2 go to your nearest garage/car workshop and buy a sheet of gasket fibre and make your own using the old one as a template. It does the same job! Same applies to oil fire burner gaskets.

have done this type of thing before on plumbing, wouldnt entertain it though on boilers
 
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!

have done this type of thing before on plumbing, wouldnt entertain it though on boilers

I got this tip off a htg engr a few years back, I know of others who have done the same over time, just make sure the depth of the gasket is enough to ensure its tightness.
 
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!

Never try and use a brass olive reducing set in an Oventrop TRV or lockshield as the fittings aren't deep enough to accomodate them. Use a copper reducing solder fitting instead.
 
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!

Pipe splicers are handy for cutting copper pipe however if theres water in the pipework theres no going back. Alternatively a hacksaw slightly cuts into the pipe at first. When in doubt use a hacksaw!

Even better drill a small hole in it and if its still full screw a self tapping screw in wrapped with PTFE to stop the water.
 
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!

Nice one. As we live we learn:)
 
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!

Or just put a small slice in the pipe with a hacksaw and if there is still water in it wrap some insulation tape around the pipe. Saves fiddling about with a screw and no doubt you will end up loosing it in the insulation!
 
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!

Quick fix for a perforated pipe - jubilee clip and a square of car innertube. For some houses round here with private water supplies (the water can be quite corrosive) you find pipe covered with such repairs.
 
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!

Flimsy bath panels?

You know when fitting a bath panel you ALWAYS need to slice 20mm off one end to get it in and it leaves one end mis shapen and flaping about?

What I did today on a micron thin Homebase bath panel (slightly curved) was silicone the cut off back on the end of the panel.(front face of cut off glued to back of panel) This gives you the shape and strength back on that side, and a return.

You'll have to give yourself say 2 - 3 hours for the Dow Corning to set so glue it early in the day but apart from that it worked a treat.
 
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!

for gluing up bath panels, invest in a set of acrylic superglue sold at your local pvc merchant for around £8.
sets in 15 seconds.
 
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!

Pipe splicers are handy for cutting copper pipe however if theres water in the pipework theres no going back. Alternatively a hacksaw slightly cuts into the pipe at first. When in doubt use a hacksaw!

Even better drill a small hole in it and if its still full screw a self tapping screw in wrapped with PTFE to stop the water.

Or just put a small slice in the pipe with a hacksaw and if there is still water in it wrap some insulation tape around the pipe. Saves fiddling about with a screw and no doubt you will end up loosing it in the insulation!


If worried about whether there's water in a 15mm pipe - especially during freezing it - best thing is to put on a a self-cutting isolation valve.

17035.gif

Available at bes.co.uk
 
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!

Keep a 40mm to 43mm (1.5" solvent weld pipe size) adaptor in your van for when you are fitting a waste trap from our continental friends! They come 40mm OD and our UK pipe doesn't fit!! I can tell you where to buy them, Sanifix on 0845 450 1940 or 01902 636095
 
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!

Don't lick your finger before smoothing silicone! It adds bacteria into the silicone and relicking your finger puts silicone in your mouth and it's NOT good for you!!
 
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!

ALWAYS use the correct cutter and not a hacksaw when cutting JG Speedfit or Hep20 etc. O rings can get damaged otherwise....
 
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!

I don't sell it, stock it, work for them or have anything to gain but try out Everbuild Styxall, especially the crystal clear one! I use it all the time for applications where you need to seal in a shower screen and test it immediately.
 
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!

Black marks on glass - lighter fuel and WD40 are useful weapons.

Also WD40 (with kitchen roll) makes many scratches on your car/van disappear and it also clears those annoying tar spots that find their way around the wheel arches and up the doors. (Wash off with car shampoo after using WD40.)
 
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!

WD40 is good for loads of things. I polish out black marks and improve scratches if not deep using T-Cut and mix in some talcum powder or jeweller's rouge for extra cutting action. Mix just water with them too. You have to rub really really hard and be patient but it can save a costly piece of glass.
 
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!

Only hand tighten basin mixer flexible hoses. Never allow any twisting of the braiding and be careful not to bend them more than 30 degrees - read the installation instructions to double check. I've known manufacturers of the hose to invalidate the warranty when a hose has failed.
 
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!

Get a pop-up waste mechanism working smoothly by making sure the horizontal and vertical bars actually touch before fitting the connecting joint. You will probably have to carefully bend the horizontal bar when in place to do this - never bend it near a threaded connection though.
 
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!

If you are fitting a waste to an acrylic bath and the layer of fibreglass to acrylic is not sealed to draining water (OR overflowing water) then seal it in with a little silicone (there are loads of tiny holes that can allow water to drain into the sandwich layer of some bath shells and materialise as mysterious leaks on the outside of the fibreglass....). Some wastes come with double seals to encapsulate this area for a good reason!
 
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re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!

When using a flexi bath overflow tube for a combined waste and overflow that is going to be way out of reach, say on a double ended bath and in the centre of the bath at the back wall, for extra security, fix it with a jubilee clip. Never comes off and gives peace of mind.
 
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!

When using a flexi bath overflow tube for a combined waste and overflow that is going to be way out of reach, say on a double ended bath and in the centre of the bath at the back wall, for extra security, fix it with a jubilee clip. Never comes off and gives peace of mind.

Yes, these hoses can blow off when unblocking baths/sinks.
 
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!

Need a compression slip coupling?

Simply take a normal compression coupling and use a small drill/Dremel grinding bit and grind away at the stop, it takes about a minute as its brass.
 
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!

Tutorial - How to remove an immersion element which has been stuck in with jointing compound:

Time - Approx 1/2 hour from draining.

1, drain to below level of element

2, remove all cover, thermostat, wires etc

3, make a saw cut across top with hacksaw as in the first picture, down to the gasket but be careful not to cut through the gasket or you will damage the face which the gasket seals onto. Make another saw cut at about 45 degrees to the first.

4, with a 3mm drill, drill a series of holes across the face of the element joining the saw cuts and going round the thermostat hole and element terminals.

5, use a 5mm drill to enlarge the holes so that a continuous gap is created across the face.

6, next we need to cut through the vertical sides of the element cap where the threaded section is (first picture). Work a hacksaw blade along the gaps to clear out and parts between the drill holes. Next cut into the threaded part, being careful not to cut beyond the thread or you will cut deep into the cylinder thread and risk damaging the cylinder.

7. with a pair of grips, try to pry out the 45 degree segment. Once you have cut through enough thread you should be able to remove this (second picture). Once removed, you should be able to squash the remaining sides of the element top together to free from the cylinder and unscrew.

8, With a wire brush and miniature screwdriver, clean out the threads on the cylinder and clean any jointing compound from the mating face.

View attachment 2100View attachment 2101

this is brill bit of info i will use this way of doin this pain in the bum usauly! also try heating the imeser up with blow torch this helps expand and contract the metal to losen the bam!
 
re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!

Siphon swap, seized wingnuts?

If the wingnuts can't be turned with grips then I've found the best way is to take a paint scraper or other thin implement and heat the end with your blowlamp until its hot enough to melt plastic and then slide it in and cut through the siphon tail.

Cistern's off in 2 seconds which will leave part of the siphon and the close couple bracket still attached, however the bolts can now be attacked with access from the top which is much much easier.

Depending on how tight the bolts have been done up etc you may need to carefuly play about with a chisel/lever to open up the gap between the bottom of the cistern and the close couple bracket in order to expose the tail. Also works with hacksaw blade, whether heated or not.
 
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re: Hints, tips & secrets of plumbing - No Banter please!

Siphon swap, seized wingnuts?

If the wingnuts can't be turned with grips then I've found the best way is to take a paint scraper or other thin implement and heat the end with your blowlamp until its hot enough to melt plastic and then slide it in and cut through the siphon tail.

Cistern's off in 2 seconds which will leave part of the siphon and the close couple bracket still attached, however the bolts can now be attacked with access from the top which is much much easier.

Depending on how tight the bolts have been done up etc you may need to carefuly play about with a chisel/lever to open up the gap between the bottom of the cistern and the close couple bracket in order to expose the tail. Also works with hacksaw blade, whether heated or not.

i just take a wee angle grinder 2 them, just makes sure u wear glasses, plus saves u the cost of a new syphon
 
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