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No im taking the old system out and going to a combi. We currently have an ancient Poterton boiler, a hot water cylinder and two water cisterns in the loft.

I mean once i have piped up the rads, run the return to a grid, and connect the flow to the mains. Turn the tap on and go around the house opening each radiator in turn.
 
No im taking the old system out and going to a combi. We currently have an ancient Poterton boiler, a hot water cylinder and two water cisterns in the loft.

I mean once i have piped up the rads, run the return to a grid, and connect the flow to the mains. Turn the tap on and go around the house opening each radiator in turn.
Thought you did but was double checking ;);)
 
I have been pressure testing as i go and so far its held pressure each time overnight. Probably do a final one with the system full with as much water as i can before pumping it up.
 
I always flush before filling the boiler towel rails always have debris from the manufacturing process , stelrad have been especially bad recently rusty water in a few i have fitted maybe from testing in the factory ? Cheers kop
 
Don't forget to test to manufacturers specification
 
Im only doing an air pressure test. But will go to the required pressure. With as much water in the system as I can to reduce air volume.

Needs to be water mate
 
It SHOULD be water only due to H&S being a diyer I can choose to ignore those. Fill it with water then pump up, be minimal air volume.

Yes and no most leaks won't show up with air you shove a hydraulic pressure test and you will see
 
What if any cleaning steps should be done. In emails he said that a water flush through will be carried out. Seeing as its brand new everything and plastic piping is that all that's required.
plastic piping now its becoming clearer any alarm bells ringing shaun , harvest , town ?
 
It appears like your quite competent, just go ahead and do it. Air testing plastic pipework ain't a brilliant method for tightness testing but it better than no test
 
It appears like your quite competent, just go ahead and do it. Air testing plastic pipework ain't a brilliant method for tightness testing but it better than no test
The best I can do short of hiring a hydraulic tester, is to fill with water and pump up the air will at least rise to the high points so everything else will be hydraulic tested. I'm pretty sure there won't be any leaks the bits I have done so far have held 2 bar overnight.
 
I am not questioning your method or ability. Its only water and it only your home
 
It appears like your quite competent, just go ahead and do it. Air testing plastic pipework ain't a brilliant method for tightness testing but it better than no test
Most of us prefer a system to be completely copper
 
Air compresses, water doesn't. Plastic pipes have to be pressure tested to the mi's. Or no claims on failure.
 
The best I can do short of hiring a hydraulic tester, is to fill with water and pump up the air will at least rise to the high points so everything else will be hydraulic tested. I'm pretty sure there won't be any leaks the bits I have done so far have held 2 bar overnight.

Should be 10 bar water at fault the system can go to 3 and test needs to be at least 11/2 times that
 
Yes well that's what he's said
It is. I'd have a crack at the boiler but I have enough on my plate, want the warranty and I just can't be bothered doing the boiler as well. The plumbing is easy, radiators on the walls copper risers then plastic for the rest, supported every 300mm, insulated to water bylaws in the cold areas, as thick as I can go every where else especially in the DHW.
 
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