Well come home and it hasn't tripped out so it MAY well be sorted. I still plan to change the system to a combi anyways in the near future!. Liking the look of nest also.
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- Thread starter Leeccc
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Discuss No central heating...new boiler in the Boilers area at Plumbers Forums
Stay away from combi boilers stick to the old method x or y plan for me on a combi if you have water pressure issues ie hard water area this is a no no with all boilers heat exchangers kettle up than you have issues filter on return all inhibitors added and a power flush jobs a good one
It is a hard water area for sure, I've been told of something called a magnaflow or magnatec which filters out all the crud?
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I think you're thinking of the Magnaclean? Its a magnet based filter that filters out the magnatite (magnetic sludge from corrosion of CH system). They're useful but they won't help you with hardwater problems i.e. limescale, for that you want something like the combimate.
Yep limescale is quite bad around here. Well boiler hasn't tripped out yet, so fingers crossed it's problem solved!. All I need to do now is try and bleed the towel rad, it hasn't got the typical bleed valve, just some flat screw on both sides which was impossible to turn!. Any suggestions?
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Towel rads often have those, you should still be able to use a normal bleed key on them which I'd recommend over trying to use a flat head screwdriver with the risk of stripping/breaking the bleed nipple.
Sorry I wasn't clear enough it's a totally flat screw. Flat as a penny.
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In which case you're going to have to use a flat head screwdriver, you need to make sure you use a screwdriver that fits it exactly or you'll strip the head if you use one that's a bit too small and you then need to have enough downward force on the screwdriver that it doesn;t jump.
I don't think I have one big enough!.
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You need to get one or you'll just end up stripping the head. Your best bet is probably to go to somewhere like screwfix and get a decent set of flat head screwdrivers. To work out which one to use, narrow it down by eye to the 2 or 3 that look closest in size and then very lightly test them by seeing which one grips/doesn't jump with very little downward pressure.
Is there an easy way to Change that valve?
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They are normally fairly easy to change, you shouldn't even need to drain anything assuming your valves don't letby. Close both valves to the rad making a note of how many turns it took to close the lockshield valve, then open bleed nipple to release any pressure in the rad*, use a spanner or adjustable spanner to remove the bleed valve, apply ptfe to new valve, screw it back in, open up lockshield by however many turns you noted down at the start and bleed rad./
*If you can't undo the bleed nipple you will need to skip this step and instead slightly crack open the bleed valve with a spanner, use towel to soak up water that weeps out, once its stopped weeping then remove it completely.
*If you can't undo the bleed nipple you will need to skip this step and instead slightly crack open the bleed valve with a spanner, use towel to soak up water that weeps out, once its stopped weeping then remove it completely.
You have 3-port from what you describe. Can you please check on your hot water or heating demand, there is a small lever on the zone valve is this moving freely.Hi everyone, I am at my wits end and am at the point where i want to smash my boiler with a sledgehammer...
Ok I'll begin...moved into my new house in October, the previous owner installed a new baxi ecoblue 16kw heat only boiler back in July.
Friday just gone I had 2 new rads installed as the living and dining rooms had neither (underfloor heating and a gas fire), also a new thermostat as the old one was an old Honeywell dial clicker. Rads and thermo went on fine no problems, turns out though when my installer was in the airing cupboard he found that the 3 way valve was hanging off its pipe and the previous engineer hadn't flushed out the system prior to installing new boiler....still reading?
Friday evening the boiler decided to blow it's fuse, of course I am thinking wtf?! And eventually found an 3amp fuse and boiler opens up again no issues....forward to monday my engineer replaces the ball cocks in the loft as they were the outlawed ones ,replaced the 3 way and a new timer , along with adding some inhibitor as there was none in the system. He showed me the wiring in the junction box and said it looked terrible, wires all over the place so tidied them up a bit. Boiler working his job all finished, later that day the fuse blows again so I replace. ..
Fast forward to today, woke up with the heating and water nice and hot, timer set to go off at 0945...rads start cooling down at 930, and since then rads aren't warming up even though we have water, prior to all this rads would only also work with the water heated up. The thermostat is set to 23o on the wall with the little flame permanently on, the timer is showing that water and heating is on but there is no heating. Does anyone have any ideas what is going on because I want to tear out this rubbish and put a combi in its place.
Thankyou
Well surprise surprise another problem, no hot water, heating is lovely and hot but no hot water this morning. Pipes leading to the cylinder were warm not roasting, I managed to touch the bottom of the cylinder and it was cold, i tried moving small lever on the 3 way valve and it would barely move a third of the way. So that's knackered also now??
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You need to stick with the engineer you had last ideally mate. Have you called him back out yet? What did he say?
The one who cured my tripping or the initial one. I text the one from Friday. No reply yet
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The one that stopped the trippingThe one who cured my tripping or the initial one. I text the one from Friday. No reply yet
Not yet, ill try again tomorrow. Looks like the immersion will be on again. With a plug in timer this time.
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By plug in timer do you mean one of these:
If so make sure its ok to handle however many watts your immersion heater draws, they're a massive fire risk if you plug anything too powerful into them.
I was planning on something like that yes. 3120w max it says. Although no such info on the cylinder apart from redring immersion heater!
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Yeh you want to read the wattage on the immersion heater itself. Assuming you've got one that's around 3kw if it was me I would not use one of those timers with it, they're notoriously shoddily made and if anything goes wrong you can be looking at a nasty fire. They do make heavy duty ones iirc that can handle higher wattages, especially higher inductive loads, I don't know enough electrixs wise to confirm if immersion heaters have high inductive loads when starting from cold light some lights do, but would not want to risk it.
E2a might not hurt to pop over to electrical forum and see what they recommend, as I say my knowledge of electrics isn't good enough to say one way or another sure but it's not something to take any chances with.
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Yeah your right, I'm not going to chance it. I'll just have to wake up early to put it on for missus and boy then switch it straight off again after an hour or so.
It's so damned frustrating though! It always happens on a Friday or weekend!!
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