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Hi TonyOh I forgot, the 15 mm and 22 mm gate valve are exactly the same, crap for balancing two turns open and they are fully open.
One other very important point on domestic, the coil in the cylinder if you have one offers the lowest resistance to flow of any other part of the system, therefore when you balance the system on a 3 port valve with the ball in the middle you must go and balance the coil along with the rads, I would start with the 15 mm balancing valve off the coil 1.5 turns open and work up from that.
I you struggle to get a 10 Deg C drop across your rads then you have stretched you pipe sizes to the limit or you have got silly long runs that are using up the head of the pump.
And remember this, you use a high head pump it cost more to run than a normal pump, if you have the speed set up to 3 then the life time running cost is high, I remember when all system were all gravity, Doh, just about and two pipe system just invented.
Tony
The plumbing industry along with technology never stands still, I suppose that's why we love it so.
We now balance to achieve 20 deg C across F&R, don't fit balancing valves to the cylinder primary's (well I don't) due to the 25-30mins heat-up of modern cylinders & have the hot water on first then go over to any heating.
The use of the new generation of circulators such as this Alpha 2 both with it's auto variable speed settings (& energy saving motor) means we can have the speed 3 only when it's needed & lower ones when not, saving a bit of money & system noise.
The one thing that has not changed & won't ever is the need to understand what & why we have to do to make these systems work, just like balancing the system, the flow meters may help but you have to know what the flow rate should be in the first place.
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