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Discuss Unvented cylinder size in the UK Plumbers Forums area at Plumbers Forums

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97
200/210 or 250l indirect unvented cylinder...

Pros and cons of both please guys, whats the thinking??
Better to go bigger, or are there other considerations to be thought of....?
 
I often spec for 'Gledhill platinum stainless indirect' cylinders. I rate them and they have the floating baffle that eliminates need for expansion vessel and adds a decent amount of accumulation that may help with your 'pressure' issues
 
No go for the plate heat exchanger with your current sized boiler.
330i is a rebadged Glowmorm boiler so she's getting on a bit now probably over ten years or more but if well maintained and serviced I'd connect to a unvented cylinder or you may want to consider a boiler upgrade at the same time , but as Timmy has said not suitable for a plate heat install as it is .
 

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330i is a rebadged Glowmorm boiler so she's getting on a bit now probably over ten years or more but if well maintained and serviced I'd connect to a unvented cylinder or you may want to consider a boiler upgrade at the same time , but as Timmy has said not suitable for a plate heat install as it is .
Yeah, thats the one, it still works and gives us heat! Its bastard expensive to run mind...
Im not against upgrading it, but i need to justify the cost against the working unit tbh...

Water softners a thing to look at....? Whats the best thing without spending a million bucks....😫
 
Never had a problem with Monarch water softeners and reasonably priced , I'd maybe think hard and get both boiler and cylinder done fit weather compensation is a must now to save energy. Kop
 

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Yeah, thats the one, it still works and gives us heat! Its bastard expensive to run mind...
Im not against upgrading it, but i need to justify the cost against the working unit tbh...

Water softners a thing to look at....? Whats the best thing without spending a million bucks....😫
Here's one I recommend around £500 . Kop
 

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Lost how mate? A new boiler and unvented cylinder with the boiler wired to a external weather sensor , I've recommended a water softener above . Kop
SO, at present im on a y plan, am i right in thinking, with an unvented a cylinder, it would be best to change over to an s plan, with the two valves close to the boiler? And if so, do i require an extra 5 or 6 core wire to link up new valves,??
If the y plan stays, i assume the new valve just goes near the cylinder somewhere and gets wired to the control centre....

Just want to try and do half a job! But do it right once!
New boiler is a bit costly at present...
 
SO, at present im on a y plan, am i right in thinking, with an unvented a cylinder, it would be best to change over to an s plan, with the two valves close to the boiler?
Weather compensation, if that's what you are still considering (I've lost track), is incompatible with standard S-plan with a cylinder as one zone because most of the time the CH water is below the 65°C minimum needed to heat the cylinder.
 
Various ways to do it but here's the Ideal wiring diagram for their heat only boiler and unvented cylinder with a outdoor sensor installed .Kop
 

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SO, at present im on a y plan, am i right in thinking, with an unvented a cylinder, it would be best to change over to an s plan, with the two valves close to the boiler? And if so, do i require an extra 5 or 6 core wire to link up new valves,??
If the y plan stays, i assume the new valve just goes near the cylinder somewhere and gets wired to the control centre....

Just want to try and do half a job! But do it right once!
New boiler is a bit costly at present...
5 core and basically yes I'd change the 3 port to two or even 3 - 2 ports zone valves does your property need to be as warm upstairs as it does downstairs?
 
Bungalow....
Big bungalow? Still applies bedrooms and living areas can be split up all these little things add up to more control over your heating and savings on energy, the one big thing to remember is insulation 350 mm in your loft space is now the norm walls , floors I'd do the lot if I could in reality you probably can't 🙂 but just do what you can.
 
Big bungalow? Still applies bedrooms and living areas can be split up all these little things add up to more control over your heating and savings on energy, the one big thing to remember is insulation 350 mm in your loft space is now the norm walls , floors I'd do the lot if I could in reality you probably can't 🙂 but just do what you can.
4 bed, yeah, i suppose its big by todays standards, 80s...so insultaion is poor at least...on a hill to, so we catch the easterly blows!
 
As KoP suggested the best thing you can do to improve efficiency and comfort is to improve insulation - it really can't be overstated!
Weather comp is underrated too I think and is definitely possible with s-plan type setup. You could search for X-plan as an option, it does start to get a bit technical but well worth a try.
 
I just re-read this. I first read it as no more than 7 minutes at a time. Apologies, how long are you in there? 7 minutes is a long shower in my book. If it's going to be over 10-12 min each one after another, go bigger.
No idea! Ive never timed it tbh!!
I have more on my plate than thinking about shower times at present....selfish but true....shower time is my escape, my down time
 

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