water help no hot water

[jpbroad1970]

hi we have an issue with our heating and water system . new flow switch and new pump , system bled , all done by a professional but still no hot water or heating. when the plumber left yesterday we had boiling radiators and some hot water although the heating was switched off. my suspicion is diverter valve but unsure as to why nothing is working again now. boiler tries to kick in but says FD error (flow)

would be really happy for some advice as we have been 4 weeks without hot water no and the Mrs isn't happy.

thanks in advance
John

 

[jpbroad1970]

i can soon connect it back up and give it a go, have nothing to loose.

thanks

 

[jpbroad1970]

I've put it on 4m and it said 11w so doing a purge thingy

 

[jpbroad1970]

4m still gives 10w even with purge and unplugging it a few times

 

[jpbroad1970]

When it switches on I get red dot and 69

 

[jpbroad1970]

Hopefully this shows it ok

 

[Brambles]

JP

Switch it off asap - you have the pump on overload - or trying to operate outside specification - the solid red light

 

[John.g]

Its the manual start led thats illuminated, don't know what the 69 or 6.9 means but the red dot shows a fault condition I presume, the fault codes in my manual are prefixed with a E ie E21 etc.
I hope that red light isn't because of pump blocking/o/load etc.
I see you have it selected to speed 3 again.
I just did that venting on mine at its normal 4M setting and when it finished the power is now 14W (boiler off) which is ~ 8 LPM, its normally 17/18W., so if you cant get it to 14W or > then I think you will have to abandon ship.

 

[jpbroad1970]

It's off and has been for a while, it only flashes up quick then goes to 27

 

[jpbroad1970]

I did all you said on 4.0m and on speed 1 and on speed 2 but it gives 5w on 1, 12w on 2 and 27w on 3

 

[jpbroad1970]

I've abandoned ship lol nothing else I can do in my skillset.

 

[jpbroad1970]

Progress update, plumbers have been today, 3.5 hours and looks like we are functional. It looks like it was air. They have simplified the pipework in the airing cupboard. Still sounds like a bit of air in the pipework though. Pump is running between 31 and 33w.

 

[Harvest Fields]

Thanks for keeping us all posted.

 

[John.g]

Progress update, plumbers have been today, 3.5 hours and looks like we are functional. It looks like it was air. They have simplified the pipework in the airing cupboard. Still sounds like a bit of air in the pipework though. Pump is running between 31 and 33w.

That's great news JP, that airing cupboard is well named. You should be circulating ~ 10/12 LPM if on speed 3. (6M)

 

[jpbroad1970]

That's great news JP, that airing cupboard is well named. You should be circulating ~ 10/12 LPM if on speed 3.

Yeah is on speed 3 don't wanna mess with it lol

 

[jpbroad1970]

Yeah is on speed 3 don't wanna mess with it lol

2 pictures if they make sense lol

 

[jpbroad1970]

Well unfortunately the saga continues, everything worked great Friday Saturday Sunday Monday then as we got up this morning FD error back on boiler. Give them their due plumbers back out today but couldn't get it going. They are thinking heat exchanger but won't commit till boiler stripped as as you all know they are expensive.

 

[John.g]

Sorry to hear that but I suppose really not that surprising as a 6M head was required to circulate ~ 10 LPM.

 

[jpbroad1970]

Nope but going to be expensive me thinks about £400 for heat exchanger if that's what it is.

 

[Ziggie]

Restating testing mentioned earlier.
Switch demand for heating and hot water off on programmer and turn down both thermostats.
Now switch off power to the entire system using the spur box.
The 3 port should move to hot water setting.
Now select hot water on programmer and turn cyl thermostat up.
The 3 port should remain at hot water setting and boiler and pump should start.
Now switch hot water off on programmer and turn down cyl thermostat. Boiler and pump should stop , the pump may run on for a few minutes after the boiler stops.
Now turn on demand for heating and turn the room thermostat up.

The 3 port should move to heating and the boiler and pump should start.

Now, request hot water and turn up the cylinder thermostat.
The 3 port should move to the middle position.

Post the results of the 3 tests here which would help diagnostics.
[automerge]1565728607[/automerge]
Obviously, switch on the mains to do the testing - missed the step oops
[automerge]1565728771[/automerge]
Sorry just got the previous update - after I posted.

Just ignore

 

[jpbroad1970]

Righty ho this is the latest, blocked heat exchanger, plumbers today have managed to unblock part of it but it's buggered really, short term fix very short term so we are having a new boiler fitted next week or week after as it will give us 10 year warranty. Could just just change heat exchanger but we will feel better with new boiler.

 

[Burger]

Righty ho this is the latest, blocked heat exchanger, plumbers today have managed to unblock part of it but it's buggered really, short term fix very short term so we are having a new boiler fitted next week or week after as it will give us 10 year warranty. Could just just change heat exchanger but we will feel better with new boiler.

Glad you finally got to the bottom of it

 

[DAVE01]

Hi John,

I suggest getting your professional plumber back if he/she has supposedly fixed it?

What boiler is it?

By looking at your question it sounds to me that the accuator on top of the 3way valve is giving trouble or faulty or your programmer is possibly faulty but if the boiler is fireing you should be able to turn on the valve manually to hot water but you can check all this if you have some electricial knowledge and you should not of let this guy out of your home when he was asked to fix it no point in throughing money away